AFTER CHECKING BOTH THE WEATHER and tide-tables, we decided to re-visit the Holy Island of Lindisfarne. The Holy Island is accessible only during low tide, something that hardly bothers its 160 permanent residents but greatly affects the 650,000 visitors each year.
Right on Time
With only 160 residents it's easy to get around
Lindisfarne came into its own after the breakup of Roman rule in Britain during the 5th Century. England was divided into many small “kingdoms” ruled by Anglo-Saxon warlords and by the 7th Century King Oswald of Northumbria was the most powerful. When Oswald “imported” an Irish monk from the island monastery of Iona to be bishop of Northumbria and set him up in Lindisfarne, the Holy Island became the de facto center of Christianity in northern England.
Newer Church
Priory Ruins
Enter a monk named Cuthbert who reluctantly—he preferred the hermit life—became Bishop. His reputation as a seer, pastor and healer resulted in his sainthood and—with more than a little push from Bede’s Life of St. Cuthbert—a cult developed around him. A series of miracles at his shrine put Lindisfarne on the pilgrimage map, increasing its power and wealth.
Coastal Trail to Lindisfarne Castle
The first Viking raid in 793 put the fear of god into the monks and within a few years they retreated inland carrying Cuthbert’s remains. Over the years monks came and went and by 1536 when Henry VIII ordered the dissolution of monasteries, there wasn’t much left of Lindisfarne. But its strategic position made it ideal for a castle to prevent an attack from Catholic Scots and Henry ordered one to be built.
Crabbing and Tourism
It was cold and raining on our first visit in 2012 and we hoped for a better experience this time. The tide was out and the parking lot nearly empty when we arrived. It didn’t take long to walk through town and take a few photos of the abbey. The sun was shining and the coastal trail was dry this time so we walked past drying ropes and crab traps to the Castle. Castles are generally cold and drafty places and we read that Lindisfarne’s furnishings were out for restoration so we skipped the tour.
Bambugh Castle, farther than it appears
. . . and liddle lambs eat ivy
The views of Bamburgh Castle from Lindisfarne made us realize how near it was and we decided to visit on our way home. It was a bit farther by road than we thought but it was a scenic drive. We stopped for a picnic lunch and enjoyed watching this spring’s lambs at play.
A steal at One Million Pounds
Bamburgh Castle
The Lord of the Manor
The town of Bamburgh is adorable, expensive but adorable. The average house price last year was £1.3 million. The original castle, built in the 6th Century, was destroyed by Vikings and what you see today dates from Norman times. It is privately owned by the Armstrong family but is open to the public. You can even stay in the Clock Tower for only £2600 per week. Peasants us, we walked along the seaside path then headed for home.
Looking back at Lindisfarne
