Lisbon always seemed both sinister and romantic, a haven for spies, traitors, smugglers and other characters. But that was the Lisbon of 75 years ago. I’ve always yearned to see Lisbon but I might have well yearned for the pre-1755 Lisboa, before the earthquake flattened it. The city was rebuilt but the monarchy moved up the river to Belem. Belem is also the resting place of Vasco da Gama and the Monument to the Discoverers honors him and his ilk, especially Henry the Navigator. We also spent a nice hour in the Coach Museum, where many of the royal conveyances from past ages sit in nostalgic splendor.
Henry, da Gama and Magellan, Monument to the Discoveries
Lisbon was rebuilt after the earthquake but has been going downhill ever since. Traffic is fierce, made more difficult by the charming trolleys. A single six-euro pass covers the fine metro, the streetcars and even the funicular and an elevator for an entire day. We used every form of transportation and we walked miles. I even tried a shot of ginjinha, the city’s cherry brandy, trying to get a good feeling for the city.
Art and artifacts as they should be
The highlight of Lisbon for us was the Calouste Gulbenkian Museum, a bequest from the Armenian billionaire of the same name, as thanks to the nation that granted him asylum. Every piece on display is among the finest of its kind we have seen, from Roman coins and jewelry to Persian carpets and Islamic tiles. The paintings and statues are magnificently displayed, a model that other museums should follow.
