Our hostess, Monica, said we were the first ever Americans to stay at Casa do Brasao – in fact, tonight we were the only occupants. Casa do Brasao is a 17th Century home cum hotel in Tabuaço, complete with many of the original furnishings. It’s also big on creature comforts, modern plumbing, a canopy bed and even free port wine. We are in the heart of Portugal’s wine country, home of “port.” Just as true “champagne” can come only from the Champagne region of France, port is a trademark of the Douro River Valley of Portugal. The vineyards cling precariously on the terraced slopes, a target rich environment for photographers.
![port](https://s3.amazonaws.com/aphs.worldnomads.com/vagabondstoo/41181/DouroVelleyPort.jpg)
It's the real thing
The French have discovered Portugal. And the Dutch, you’ll find them nearly everywhere you travel. Otherwise, Portugal is the least touristed country in Western Europe. But long before the French – 20,000 years before – our early ancestors lived in the area. They left behind stone tools and primitive rock carvings of the animals they hunted. The rock art at Vale do Coa is hardly spectacular to look at – or easy to get to in situ. It’s better to appreciate it Vila Nova da Foz Coa at the World Heritage museum.