WHENEVER CONNIE ASKED CARLOS when we could hope to see a particular bird on her hit list, he replied, “Abra Pampa.” Well, here we are—or as near as possible with decent lodging, restaurants and at a “reasonable” altitude of 8000 feet—about 4000 feet lower than Abra Pampa!
![n](https://s3.amazonaws.com/aphs.worldnomads.com/vagabonds3/58665/Tilcaramountains.jpg)
View from our hotel in Tilcara
![n](https://s3.amazonaws.com/aphs.worldnomads.com/vagabonds3/58665/Empanadas.jpg)
Empenadas had been our go-to late dinner
Tilcara is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities dating back 10,000 years. “Modern” Tilcara was founded by the Spanish in 1586. Judging by the streets and some of the buildings, little has been done since. Carlos says it’s a party town and we could hear drums and music into the wee hours on both Friday and Saturday nights, even with earplugs. On the plus side we found an Italian-ish restaurant that would serve us at 7:30, not the usual nine o’clock, and the lasagna was a nice change from empanadas.
![nn](https://s3.amazonaws.com/aphs.worldnomads.com/vagabonds3/58665/Route9JujuyArgentina.jpg)
Scenery along Ruta 9, Jujuy
![bb](https://s3.amazonaws.com/aphs.worldnomads.com/vagabonds3/58665/Route9Jujuy.jpg)
There's a storm in our future
![bb](https://s3.amazonaws.com/aphs.worldnomads.com/vagabonds3/58665/Carlosduringalunchbreak.jpg)
Living it up in Abra Pampas
Carlos was proud once again to show off his home province on the 130 kilometer drive to Abra Pampa. By this time the winding roads and steep climbs seemed normal and even the scenery lost some of its magic—I’ll admit to dozing off a time or two. But he was right about the birding, Connie picked up 23 new species including a few that even surprised Carlos. There isn’t much “there” in Abra Pampa but we found a funky little restaurant that served chicken for lunch. Like every place else in Argentina the portions were huge and Coke Zero is almost unheard of. It’s no wonder so many Argentinesare gorditos.
![bb](https://s3.amazonaws.com/aphs.worldnomads.com/vagabonds3/58665/PunaTeal.jpg)
Puna Teal
![bb](https://s3.amazonaws.com/aphs.worldnomads.com/vagabonds3/58665/AndeanFlamingo.jpg)
Andean Flamingos
![b](https://s3.amazonaws.com/aphs.worldnomads.com/vagabonds3/58665/GiantCoot.jpg)
Giant Coot on its nest
![bb](https://s3.amazonaws.com/aphs.worldnomads.com/vagabonds3/58665/SilveryGrebe.jpg)
Silvery Grebe
![m](https://s3.amazonaws.com/aphs.worldnomads.com/vagabonds3/58665/ManycoloredRushTyrant.jpg)
Many-Colord Rush Tyrant
Several high altitude lakes yielded both Andean (new) and Chilean Flamingos, Giant Coot and both Freckle-Breasted and Streak-Fronted Thornbirds. We got a little muddy photographing the White-Tufted Grebe and Connie’s favorite, the Silvery Grebe. While we were watching a Wren-like Rushbird an often-heard/seldom-seen Many-Colored Rush Tyrant posed for a second, something Carlos hadn’t expected.
![bb](https://s3.amazonaws.com/aphs.worldnomads.com/vagabonds3/58665/AndeanHillstar.jpg)
Andean Hillstar
![bb](https://s3.amazonaws.com/aphs.worldnomads.com/vagabonds3/58665/MorenosGroundDoveBareeyedGroundDove.jpg)
Bare-Eyed Ground Dove
![bb](https://s3.amazonaws.com/aphs.worldnomads.com/vagabonds3/58665/PunaHawkVariableHawk.jpg)
Puna Hawk
We returned to the road to Salinas for another (successful!) try at the Bare-Eyed Ground Dove and Andean Hillstar and also saw several Giant Hummingbirds. We had to work to get photos of the Ground Dove and Hillstar but this Puna Hawk was a perfect model.
![nn](https://s3.amazonaws.com/aphs.worldnomads.com/vagabonds3/58665/PucaradeTilcarapreIncafortresssettlement2.jpg)
Pre-Inca Pocará de Tilcara
![nn](https://s3.amazonaws.com/aphs.worldnomads.com/vagabonds3/58665/PatagonianMockingbird.jpg)
Patagonian Mockingbird
![n](https://s3.amazonaws.com/aphs.worldnomads.com/vagabonds3/58665/0N7A6590.jpg)
Cardon Cactus in Bloom
We had to wait until 9:00 for the Botanic Garden to open this morning but it was worth it. Not only is it a haven for birds but several of the Cardon cacti were in bloom. The Garden also contains the restored pre-Inca fortress of Tilcara Pocara, one of the oldest in Jujuy. We came up empty-handed again in our search for the White-Browed Brushfinch despite several stops on the way back to Salta. The totals for our time with Carlos were almost two hundred species with fifty-four Lifers for Connie. There is no way to quantify the spectacular scenery or the quality time we spent with our newest friend. Gracias, Carlos.