EVEN FOUR DECKS UP, SPRAY FROM the bow streamed down our balcony windows. Oosterdam had been fighting gale-force winds and three-meter waves since we sailed back into the Pacific. Everyone was weaving like winos on a Friday night and the west wind had Oosterdam listing to port. We couldn’t wait to enter the calm waters of Chile’s fjords. This is where the cruise begins for us.
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It's a Long and Winding Road
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Safely in the Fallos Channel
It was much calmer in Canal Fallos, one of the myriad of passages through the fjords. Cruising along at a stately twelve knots on this rare sunny day giave us plenty of time to enjoy the scenery. Sometimes it felt like we are stationary and the scenery is passing by—Einstein would understand.
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Saramiento Channel
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Glacial Ice
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Patagonia
Shoal Pass is the shallowest point in Saramiento Channel. It would be impassible for Oosterdam except at peak high tide when our keel would be only 4½ feet from the shoal! By lucky coincidence high tide this afternoon at 5:30 would give us time for a stop at Brujo Glacier. Brujo, a tidewater glacier, is steadily flowing towards the sea and the bay to the glacier was laden with chunks of glacial ice.
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Brujo Glacier shedding ice
Even with high tide the captain had to reduce our speed to a crawl as we approached Shoal Pass and thread the needle between marker bouys to clear the shoal. In only a quarter-mile or so the depth went from hundreds of meters to a meter and a half and back to hundreds. I am certain the passage was well orchestrated and there was no danger but it made for an interesting time.
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Wreck of the Santa Lenora
The demise of Santa Lenora had nothing to do with Summer Pass. The former US Liberty Ship met her fate in 1968. The crew and passengers were all rescued but her rusting hulk is a reminder that the sea is a cruel mistress
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Sunset, Magellan Strait
The days are getting longer as we sail south and head for the Summer Solstice. It was still light when we closed the drapes at ten tonight.