PUERTO COQUIMBO LOOKED BETTER at dawn with its signature stick-figure concrete cross lighted than when we went ashore later Saturday morning. And in morning’s light we could see some of the wrecks that littered the harbor—another reason to thank the local harbor pilot!
This is why cruise ships use harbor pilots; Coquimbo Chile
Derelict Wreck and Oosterdam, Coquimbo Chile
Cruise Director Ed described private transportation to and from La Serena as sketchy—especially the “from” part—and reminded that if we were late returning, the ship would leave without us. One hundred bucks for a another winery tour, our other option, seemed a bit pricey so we stayed around town in Puerto Coquimbo, our first Chilean stop.
Austral Negrito, Estero wetland Coquimbo, Chile
Spectacled Tyrant—Estero wetlands; Coquimbo Chile
Red-Gartered Coot—Estero wetlands; Coquimbo Chile
We decided to walk to Estero wetland just a few miles from the ship for some exercise and a chance to see some birds. We returned cold, wet and muddy but with photos of Austral Negritos, a Spectacled Tyrant and a Red-Gartered Coot plus the usual suspects. It was just as well we didn’t go afar on our own. A couple of the official Holland America excursion buses were stuck for hours in construction traffic and it required a police escort to get them back on time. Of course the ship would have waited for them but independents like us would have been SOL, to use the nautical term.
San Antonio, Chile—Another working port
Ever since the port of Valparaiso banned cruise ships, San Antonio has become Santiago’s cruise port. Another working port, it’s really a poor choice. Not only is the port more than two hours drive from both Valparaiso and Santiago, the port closes whenever the winds are too strong and the waves get too high. We were lucky that San Antonio was open when we arrived—many passengers were leaving the cruise to fly out of Santiago and a new group would be be taking their places.
High winds, heavy seas and a narrow entrance to Puerto San Antonio
We didn’t see any reason to go to Santiago or Valparaiso, cities we’ve already visited. Instead we went ashore and used the cruise terminal wifi to check emails, updated journals and review our accounts. While we were ashore the winds increased and waves at the harbor entrance were approaching three meters. Our 5:00 PM departure was pushed back. . .and back. We finally left the dock just before Puerto San Antonio’s nine o’clock closing time!
Making up time on rough seas
The captain has been pushing Oosterdam all day at top speed to make up time—23 knots into a 45 knot headwind. We’re rockin’ and rollin’ and the weather decks have been closed—as if anyone would want to be out in these rough conditions. Welcome to the Roaring Forties!
