THE VEHICLES DROPPED US AT THE RIVER—cars are verboten in Cat Tien National Park although it seems like most everything else is OK. The park was extra-crowded this Easter weekend—groups of young people in a tent encampment; team-building, karaoke-singing corporate type; families, of course; a religious retreat led by a Buddhist from Baltimore; at least two other birding groups and many others with their own agendas.
Ferry Crossing, no cars allowed on Cat Tien
Carry your own luggage aboard
Not your average national park
Cat Tien is one of Vietnam’s largest national parks—more than seven-hundred square kilometers of forest, grassland, paved tracks and hiking trails on the Dong Nai River. But Cat Tien is lighted like a county fair at night, has several restaurants, dozens of kiosks selling beer, water and soda (but no Diet Coke,) conference rooms, a mushroom farm, gibbon rehabilitation center, a laundry, tour center and cabins with adequate accommodations for even the fussiest birders.
We weren't the only birding group
Simple but with everything we need
The lead girls smiled and said "Beep, Beep, Beep!"
We followed Quang on an easy trail to our first bird hide, which we later learned is owned by his company. The benches are level and mercifully padded since we spent several hours watching a constantly changing cast of wonderful feathered characters. Most photogenic goes to the Red Junglefowl who announced his presence with a rooster call and proceeded to strut around wolfing up corn. Any guilt we might have felt from such a staged viewing was assuaged when we encountered others—male and female—in the forest around the park.
Red Junglefowl stanging proud
Bar-Bellied Pita, a "wannasee"
Blue-Rumped Pita, a star of the show
Mrs. Blue-Rumped Pita made a cameo appearance
Bar-Bellied and Blue-Rumped Pita topped the list of “wanna-sees,” two colorful species easily to see at feeders. We also expected to see the Green-legged Partridge but Germain’s Pheasant was a pleasant surprise. Even Andre was surprised—neigh shocked—when a Slaty-Legged Crake silently appeared. He called it a “Mega,” birder-speak for “Holy crap! I never expected to see one of those.”
Green-Legged Partridge
A surprise appearance by Germain's Peacock Pheasant
Slaty-Legged Crake, a "Mega" bird
We can’t blame Quang for the dinner choices at Cat Tien; it’s pretty much “eat what’s put in front of you or go hungry” at the park’s restaurants. We do blame him for telling the waiter to turn off the bar lights where a squadron of mating termites was swarming. Without the attraction of the light they swarmed us, getting into our hair, food and drinks. He was miffed about our shouting “Turn on the lights, you stupid so-and-so!”
Turn out the lighss and the party's over
All in all a good first day at Cat Tien—59 species with half-dozen lifers for us.
