WE SPENT THE NIGHT IN DONG HOI after traveling 170 kilometers from Hue. Booking a private car rather than taking a bus assured a timely arrival and gave us a chance to stop and stretch our legs along the way.
La Vang Catholic Pilgrimage Site, a puzzlement
Original Church at La Vang
Our first stop was at the Catholic pilgrimage site of Our Lady of La Vang—what god is doing in communist Vietnam is another puzzlement. There wasn’t much of interest for those of us who don’t believe in miracles but the hundred pilgrims chanting and praying who obviously do.
Looking South across the Ben Hai River
Ho Chi Minh
One part of the Story
Loud Propaganda
Dedicated to Vietnam’s eternal desire for peace, national independence, and reunification
The Hien Luong Bridge across the Ben Hai River was the dividing line on Highway 1 between North and South Vietnam—Yellow to the South and Blue in the North. Today the bridge is a pedestrian only tourist site “dedicated to Vietnam’s eternal desire for peace, national independence, and reunification;” as victors the communists got to write the history, build the statues and curate the museum. The artifacts and photos are all accurate, their significance depends on which side of Hien Luong Bridge your loyalties were.
Anonymous Woman with a Universal Story
But there is another side to the story. While crossing the Hien Luong Bridge I met a Vietnamese-American woman traveling with her mother who is about my age. “Mama-san” was born in Hanoi. When Vietnam was partitioned in 1954, her family moved to Saigon in South Vietnam. After the fall of Saigon and communist takeover in ’75. she eventually worked her way to America. She asked if I had been in the war—when I nodded “Yes” she smiled and squeezed my shoulder. This may have been something better than the “Welcome Home” we veterans never received.
Post War Dong Hoi (internet photo)
Hail, Hail—the Gang's All Here
The port city of Dong Hoi was destroyed by US B-52 bombers in 1965 and has been rebuilt as a resort town. Our group assembled for dinner at Muong Thanh Luxury Hotel sans Andre—our South African guide was delayed by a combination of visa and travel issues—so Quang, the local guide chaired the meeting. Dave and Norrine from Vancouver are with their friends Alastair and Hedda from Toronto. Lindy from California and “the other John” from Chicago are the single travelers. And we make eight. The average age of the group skews in the upper 70s, serious birders and Rockjumper addicts all—some with over 50 birding trips under their belts—despite which I, for once, am not the least serious birder!
Can you keep a secret? Ours is more comfortable
With two guides and a driver the 12-passenger bus would be crowed so Rockjumper arranged for an additional SUV where Connie and I will probably travel for the entire trip. After a 4:30 wake-up we checked-out, loaded luggage, sorted out the seating arrangement and set out for Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park.
