T’WAS THE NIGHT BEFORE CHRISTMAS . . . and Santa didn’t come! It wasn’t that Rudolph got lost or Santa couldn’t find us again or, heaven forbid, we were naughty, not nice! Saint Nick just doesn’t bring presents to good little boys and girls in Spain. (He’s probably too busy filling stockings for spoiled American kids!)
You wasted your time being nice!
Spanish Niños have to wait for the Reyes Magos, the Three Kings or Wise Men, to deliver the goodies on January 5, usually in a nighttime parade down the city streets in Spain. And there aren’t many Christmas trees, either, but there are elaborate Nativity scenes, Portals de Beléns, in nearly every neighborhood.
Portals de Beléns, not Christmas trees
Many Madrileños attend Midnight Mass or La Misa Del Gallo (The Mass of the Rooster), just before or after eating a big seafood dinner with lobster and prawns on Nochebuena. Then they celebrate long into the night as our neighbors did. As for us, we skipped mass this year, Ha-ha! Instead of seafood John made his good-old American favorite meatloaf with baked potato and sautéd broccoli. It may not be traditional, but neither are we.
Caixa Forum
Time for a quick photo
After morning grocery shopping on Christmas Eve we visited some of the tourist sites that were still open—first stop Caixa Forum with its unique design and vertical garden. We arrived at Cibeles Palace just as they were closing but still managed to get a photo of the Jose Lebrija’s wonderful nativity scene.
Fountain at Plaza Cibeles
Velázquez with a Magpie
A much needed Christmas decoration fix
We seemed to stop at every fountain on each major roundabout and every statue; Plaza Cibeles, Don Quixote and Sancho and Velázquez with a magpie on his head. The decorations outside the Mandarin Oriental Ritz were, as you might expect, pretty spectacular as they should be for a hotel that costs $1600 per night. But we managed to get our holiday decoration fix before the doorman could shoo us away.
Ridin' alone on a Carousel
It's better than a cold butt
Magic Mushrooms, Real Jardin Botanico
Eventually we made it up to the Christmas Fair at Plaza Colon. The merry-go-round had only a lone little miss riding today—most everyone else was testing their balance on the ice rink. Sitting on a chair with runners seemed the safest and sanest method. We made a final stop to check the holiday decorations at the Botanic Gardens. Probably would have been better if they were lighted!
It's OK, it's Christmas Day
Alone in Plaza Major
We had a selection of sinfully good pastries for Christmas breakfast, courtesy of a local bakery then took advantage of the empty streets to continue our tour of Madrid on foot. We were probably the only folks out walking without a dog or two in tow. Connie led us straight to Plaza Mayor, site of the Christmas Market. It was quiet this morning but later all 100+ stalls would spring into action with a potpourri of musical instruments, toys and nativity figurines.
You are here!
Warm feet equals a warm heart
Joy, Luck and Happiness
Beware of Egyptians bearing gifts
Madrid is a city of neighborhoods, each with its own flavor. Even with the informative tile street signs we didn’t always know where we were but we could feel the change from one to another. By mid-morning we were surprised to see several flea-markets setting up and selling everything from books and mirrors to socks. We continued onward and upward to Debod, an Egyptian temple presented for Spanish assistance in rescuing Abu Simbel.
Gran Via, Madrid
Edificio Carrion, Art Deco in Madrid
Eventually we reached Gran Via, the most famous street in Madrid. Plans for Gran Via began in the mid-19th Century when it was decided that Madrid needed its own Champs d’Elise. Construction took several decades and required the demolition of more than 200 buildings and 50 streets. Since the work wasn’t completed until 1929, many of the buildings have an Art Deco feel, which we really like.
My Christmas gift to Connie
The roast chicken just came out of the oven and it smells delicious. Connie is mashing potatoes while I finish up the gravy and the sautéd asparagus. I forgot to take a photo of the chicken but here is the aftermath. Since I cooked, guess who gets to clean up!
