AFTER A SEVEN-HOUR DRIVE from the coast we perched at Guapi Assu Bird Lodge for three nights. It’s a purpose-built lodge on lovingly restored wetlands with views of the distant Serra dos Ôrgãos mountains. Thomas greeted us in English as he handed out glasses of iced rum over fresh limes, which would become a daily ritual. Dinners were “what you see is what you get,” we brought sandwiches or found a local dive for lunch. Sadly, we started each day so early our breakfast options were hot coffee, fruit and cold cereal. Andres said we could have laundry done at the Lodge but forgot to mention it was $2/item. Ouch!
Capped Heron
Rufescent Tiger Heron
Birding the trails and ponds around Guapi Assu Bird Lodge wasn’t overly exciting. The first evening we did venture out a local guide to see the Giant Snipe. They hide in the marsh grass and begin calling at dusk. Somehow undetected, they rocket up hundreds of feet and silently soar back to the marsh, giving us just a quick glimpse.
Giant Snipe caught in the light
The guide earned his pay by locating the bird in the grass with his guidely super-powers and blinding it momentarily with his spotlight—something like a deer in the headlights—so we could get a photo.
