WILLESLEIGH MANOR HOUSE IS OUR “poor-man’s Downton Abbey” for a few days. The 18th Century Georgian home near Barnstaple could use some TLC but then, couldn’t we all. For us it is convenient to some interesting drives into Exmoor National Park.
To the Manor Born, Willesleigh Manor Home
Just like Lord and Lady Grantham
There are about 4000 ponies in 20 herds in Exmoor National Park. They are “wild” in the sense that they roam freely but all of the ponies actually belong to someone. They are usually darker in color with whitish muzzles and are said to be a hardier breed than their “cousins” farther south in Dartmoor. In either case, it is a treat to spot them grazing as you drive (or ramble) through the moors.
Part of the Exmoor Herd
Even Colts have White Muzzles
It took us a while to find them among the lanes that criss-cross the hills and valleys. Along the way we stopped at Tarr Steps, another “clapper” bridge. Locals believe Tarr Steps are over 1000 years old but they probably go back “only” to the Middle Ages. There’s no dispute about the length—17 spans covering 180 feet across the River Barle!
Tarr Steps, 17 spans and 1000 years
Glastonbury and Wells weren’t especially convenient to Willesleigh Manor but we wanted to revisit them when it wasn’t raining pitchforks like last time. Our Brit friends refer to the ruined churches and monasteries as “rubble” but we somehow find them fascinating. And Glastonbury, some profess, is the final resting place of King Arthur—if he ever lived, that is. Glastonbury attracts its fair share of characters, especially on Tuesday market day. Somehow we were able to snag a parking spot just across from the Abbey and spent an hour wandering the grounds enjoying the sunshine.
The look of Glastonbury
One man's history is another man's rubble, Glastonbury Abbey
With only 12,000 residents, Wells is the smallest city in England, “city” being defined as having a cathedral. And what a cathedral it is! Wells has it all—Gothic exterior, high arched ceilings, stained glass, unique scissor arches. No wonder it has been called one of the most “beautiful and poetic” of the English cathedrals.
Wells Cathedral, a monument to Gothic Architecture
Contemplation beneath Stained-Glass
Elegant Scissor Arches, Wells Cathedral
Today we were captivated by the Vicar’s Close. Somehow we missed this wonderful pedestrian cul-de-sac secreted behind a narrow doorway ten years ago. I’ll blame it on the rain. The Close is believed to be the only complete medieval street left in England.
Vicar's Close, still occupied and still singing!
The houses date from the 14th Century and were the homes of the Vicar’s Choral, who sang daily worship in the Cathedral. Still do, as a matter of fact. Originally there were 42 houses, one for each vicar. When the Anglican church permitted vicars to marry after the Reformation, some were combined to make today’s 27. And they are truly wonderful!
