THE ENGLISH LOOK UPON BRIGHTON THE WAY my New Jersey friends revere Seaside Heights. In truth, neither stacks up well against the “real” beaches of the world—but you make do with what you’ve got. We visited Brighton not to sit in the sand (there is none, only stones) but to examine yet another Midsomer Murder scene.
Brighton has the Palace Pier—but no sand
Horror Hotel, the perfect setting for a Misdomer Murder
We also pilgrimaged up the coast—and back in time—to Hastings where in 1066, William of Normandy literally put England on the map. Hastings is also the setting for the fantastic British drama series, Foyle’s War—especially 31 Croft Road, the home of Chief Detective Superintendent Christopher Foyle.
Foyle's War; don't miss it
31 Croft Road, home of Chief Detective Superintendent Foyle
It takes so much concentration to drive a stick-shift on the left in the UK is that I often miss the scenery and have to return later. So on the way to Hastings we stopped in the charming village of Alfriston which we had admired while driving to Newhaven. John even managed to have his photo taken with the Queen herself! Sort of, anyway.
The Star Inn, Alfirston (circa 1520)
Maybe I can be Her escort for the Platinum Jubilee
We made another small detour into “1066 Country” to Pevensey Castle. Originally a 4th Century Roman fort, Pevensey is considered to be the landing place of William the Conquerer’s army. Not much to see but it was nice to stretch our legs.
Pevensey Castle in "1066 Country"
Hiking the Beachy Head on the South Downs towards the Seven Sisters
The main reason for today’s outing—our reason for visiting the East Sussex coast—was to walk through the South Downs along the great chalk cliffs of Beachy Head and the Seven Sisters. The 350 foot high White Cliffs of Dover may be better known but at 500 feet, Beachy Head is higher. The vertigo inducing views down to the lighthouse are spectacular—even the vista away from the sea is stunning.
Beachy Head Lighthouse
Not as brave as he looks
Can you tell it's windy?
The Seven Sisters are higher still, over 650 feet. They dominate the view looking west from the Belle Tout lighthouse. To returning sailors with nooky on their minds, the cliffs looked like a troupe of can-can dancers flipping their skirts and showing their nickers. Remember, these guys were alone at sea for a long time!
It's more often 'body recovery" than "rescue"
Hiking along the cliffs isn’t the only activity on the South Downs. Each year about 20 unhappy souls throw themselves from the cliffs, so many that the Chaplaincy Team conducts daily patrols and first responders practice rescue/body recovery.
Who's on First? and What's an Over?
On a happier note, in our way home we stopped alongside the Cricket Grounds in East Deal to watch a spot of England’s national sport. I still don’t know the rules or scoring but the Brits seem to love it!
