PITTY THE FOLKS WHO VISIT WAIKIKI and say they have “done” Hawaii. Even discounting Maui and Kauai—IMHO the two most scenic islands— there is so much more to see just on Oahu. We have been heading out each morning to the hills above Pearl Harbor and Honolulu looking for Oahu’s endemic birds. And while the birding hasn’t been entirely successful—seen or heard but no photos—the views of Pearl Harbor and Waikiki have been breathtaking.
Daimond Head and Catamaran from Waikiki
Downtown Honolulu and Diamond Head from the hills
Today, our last in the Islands, we drove around Oahu. There are only 1000 miles of roads in Oahu and none go around the circumference but the Kamehameha Highway makes for a nice drive. Our GPS Gabi, who has done OK in Spanish and Italian, is having a heck of a time with Hawaiian. “She” pronounces “Ka-may-a-may-a” as Kamey-hamey-ha but nevertheless always takes us where we want to go.
Dole Pineapple plantation
Once you get off of the Interstate heading northwest—yes, Hawaii inexplicably has Interstate Highways—the speed limit drops to 35 and the land belongs to Dole. This is the leeward side of Oahu and perfect for pineapples. Eventually you reach the North Shore, what we’ve decided is the “real” Hawaii. This is where the big waves that make surfers reach for their rosary beads roar in at places like Sunset Beach. It was calm today but the surf shops in Haleiwa were busy with stand-up paddle boards and kayaks while some of the local surfers were showing off on the 3-foot waves.
A Big Day at Sunset Beach
Hanging Ten at Haleiwa
Small wave, Big ride
"Gremmies" and a Classic VW
There are plenty of scenic beaches along the windward northeast coast, tons of palm trees and weather-beaten food trucks selling shrimp, tacos, fruit and T-shirts. There is even an island in the shape of a coolie’s hat called fittingly, Chinaman’s Hat. And across from the ocean the green Ko’olau Range rises 4000 feet straight up to the clouds and it is often raining.
Chinaman's Hat
Green and Rugged Windward Oahu
There is much more to Hawaii than Waikiki but you have to go find it.
