MOHASSEN IS ALREADY MAKING US CRAZY. He insists on walking us across the street like a wayward Boy Scout and thinks us incapable of buying a Diet Pepsi without his help. But most annoying, he doesn’t speak to Connie—won’t even look at her—and refers to her as “lady.” When I called him on it he put on his whipped-dog face and groveled in a way that puts Harry Potter’s Dobby to shame.
Connie reflects on Cleopatra's Pool
In his defense we are not typical of those who take these tours. We have already opted out of the “therapeutic tourism” venues—hot springs, mineral soaks and scalding sand baths—and have declined a swim in Cleopatra’s Pool and the salty Lake Siwa. We did acquiesce and visited palm-shrouded Fatnas Island for the colorful sunset which never materialized. Not his fault.
Fortress around Oracle of Ammon
Awaiting a Word from the Wise
We are more interested in the historical sites, temples and monuments. Places like the Oracle of Ammon, one of the main reasons for coming to Siwa for more than 2000 years. Its most famous visitor was Alexander the Great in 331 BCE who traveled across the desert to speak with the Oracle of Ammon. He supposedly received good tidings from the Oracle, perhaps that he was the son of Zeus-Ammon and rightfully a Pharaoh of Egypt. I, however, heard nothing—not even a hot stock tip or a sure-thing on the Third Camel Race.
Outside Wall of Shali Fortress
We spent an hour climbing through and exploring the Fortress of Shali overlooking the center of town. Its mud and salt kershef walls were never breached by invaders but dissolved like sugar during a three-day rain storm in 1926. Parts have been restored and the remains look like a tide-ravaged sand castle at the Jersey Shore.
Alleyways of Siwa
Baker and Siwi bread
The Rug Guy
Mohassen loosened the reins and let us wander around town for a while taking pictures and generally making a spectacle of ourselves. Actually we are among the most conscientious visitors; long trousers and face masks as opposed to the shorts of some of the Spaniards. Since we couldn’t recognize the language difference we don’t see Berbers as different from Egyptian Arabs except for the extreme dress of some of the women in black.
Berber Woman
