IN CASE YOUR HISTORICAL RECALL is a little bit fuzzy, Renaissance means “rebirth”— a return to ancient Greek and Roman thinking and styles. In Italy the perception was that the power and glory that was ancient Rome could be reborn. Florence, with its rich cultural history and wealthy citizens like the Medici family who could support the arts, was its natural birthplace. Financed with Cosimo’s money, the talents of Leonardo and Michelangelo combined with the writings of Dante, Boccaccio and Machiavelli among others kick-started a new way of looking at the natural world.
Salla della Nioble, Uffizi Gallery
Satyr Socrates
The 160 stairs to the third-floor galleries in the Uffizi were just as daunting on Sunday. There were several rooms we hadn’t explored. Many of the statues were Renaissance versions of Roman copies of Greek originals—that’s what the “rebirth” business is all about. I also wanted to get second (or is it third?) look at some of the other works by Michelangelo, Raphael and Lippi.
Doni Tonda, Michelangelo
Raphael's Madonna of the Goldfinch
Madonna with Child and Two Angels by Lippi
The Uffizi isn’t the only place in Florence to experience the Renaissance. Armed with our Uffizi Pass we crossed Ponte Vecchio over the Arno towards the Pitti Palace. We headed for the Boboli Gardens first, hoping to beat the forecast thunderstorms. We had been disappointed in the Gardens in 2011—it was the middle of winter after all. We hadn’t yet learned that European “gardens” don’t necessarily have flowers—they more resemble parks with fountains, ornamental hedges and wandering pathways to confuse visitors. Sometimes you wonder if you will ever find your way to the “uscita.”
Long Day at the Gardens
Flowers in Boboli Gardens
Fountain of Young Boy
Neptune with Great Blue Heron
With darkening skies and after giving away our Pitti Palace tickets—they’re free with the Passepartout Card—we headed home past Sunday runners, women-who-lunch, young lovers and families out for a stroll. We made it back from the Garden in time to batten down our windows before the lightening flashed and thunder crashed and shutters started banging in the wind.
Supper at Last—Last Supper Treasure Hunt
The Uffizi is closed on Monday. So, we learned after a long and disappointing hike, are some of the venues where versions of Leonardo’s famous Last Supper are supposed to be on display. Connie had planned a “Last Supper Treasure Hunt” to suss out five of the murals. Some, it seems, are closed permanently. Chiuso! We scored at Santa Maria del Carmine convent with Alessandro Allori’s frescoe. It looks like we’ll have to settle for three.
"Crucifix" by Michelangelo at 18 years
Our only true success was at Basilica of Santo Spirito where Connie pirated an admittedly poor photo of Michelangelo’s Crucifix, a wooden sculpture done when Michelangelo was only 18 and living in the convent. Perhaps old Spirito messed with her exposure.
