Monday PAPEETE TAHITI:
Finally we spotted land – Quite bizarre to see islands rising from the sea. We were late docking but eventually – all clear into Papeete.
Papeete was a bit disappointing – for something that sounds so exotic, it was just a poor little town. I’d romanticised it in my head – all the Mutiny on the Bounty stories probably. We walked up into the Markets and looked around. Lots of colourful materials, woodcarvings, black pearls, baskets etc. But very expensive. I continued walking around and eventually sat in the park. People watching, as I love to do.
What I should have done, I learned later, was to get on a local tour. Two hours around the island for $US40 (instead of $100 + charged by the ship). Other passengers did that and said it was lovely! Like so many other places, it’s the places out of the town that say wow!
Tuesday MOOREA:
We docked at 8am with much clattering and banging. I woke up – anxious to see this new island. I stood out on deck and looked at the volcanic peaks towering over the ship, which was moored out in a sheltered bay. It was glorious and I had one of those feelings about how privileged I am. I thought, “How many people in the world get to see this sort of thing?” incredibly grateful for the genetic lottery that allowed me to be born in a western wealthy country. Going ashore was by tender where you get into a boat to be taken ashore. Very hot, not much to see at the jetty. So I learned my lesson from yesterday and paid $40 to go on an “Around the Island” tour, How pretty it was away from the pier!!
The guide (known as Blanc, or White) was a character. Fair skinned, blond, I assumed he was French, To my surprise we said he was Tahitian (with a Swiss “Grandpappy”) From a family of 12, he and one sister have this colouring. He told us that as children they asked why they were blond. They were told “because you two were made in the day and the others were made at night”. Silence, while we all laughed. Then he said “As you can see, not many babies on the island made in the day!”
There were beautiful beaches and some of those over-the-lagoon huts that we’ve come to associate with Tahiti. Moorea was every bit Tahiti as the travel brochures show it.
Wednesday: BORA BORA:
I’d found Bora Bora a little disappointing – perhaps it’s the overcast sky. Or more like that I liked Moorea so much that I was expecting too much of Bora Bora. Or both. From the ocean it was lovely. But up close the beach was only metres wide – pretty enough with white sand. But I think most Aussie beaches are better, The Novatel Hotel seemed to have commandeered most of it. The lagoons are pretty with turquoise water, and safe enough for snorkelling and other water stuff. Never mind, I’d found a lovely Catholic Church. Tahiti is politically part of France, and so it’s the Catholic religion that predominates. This church was all white-washed walls and dark wood. It had the most beautiful modern stained window above the altar, and a row of besser bricks along the wall that let air in through the holes. I love it.
Thursday RAIATEA:
Today on a little island where tourism doesn’t seem to have taken over. The people were lovely in that way people are when their lives aren’t continually interrupted by boatloads of noisy self-important tourists. I was able to practise some token French. No beaches – or at least we didn’t see any. Apparently there’s some spectacular scenery. But we only had a short visit. But I’m glad we stopped here for the every day life!
Today I wanted to spend my remaining French Polynesian Francs. In the markets I found a patchwork piece –quite abstract in red/brown/orange hues. It reminds me of a sunset, Of course, I didn’t need it. And not sure where I’ll put it. But I’ve learned that when something grabs you like this did, you are better off to buy it. Otherwise you always regret the missed opportunity – and even in the unlikely event that you go back, it’s never still there. It’s not really Polynesian, but it’s a lovely memory. And a bargain!!
Sailing off now for three more sea days,
(From my Journal)
