THERE IS SOMETHING ABOUT VENICE THAT LURES people back. An Englishwoman told us she visits two or three times a year. A couple from Hawaii said they have been here at least 30 times. And this is our second visit.
The palazzos on the Grand Canal are looking a bit worn and the acqua alta (high water) is becoming more of a problem. San Marco is abuzz with tourists, even at this time of year, but it’s easy to find quiet, uncrowded alleys where real Venetians live. We even found an affordable hotel in a quiet neighborhood on its own canal.
Hidden Venice
Venice has been a stop on the Grand Tour since its inception. The art, architecture and shear uniqueness of Venice never seem to grow old. The Doge’s Palace gives you a look at what it would have been like during the city’s heyday as the trading center of the world. And San Marco is one of Europe’s great cathedrals with mosaics matched only by those of Istanbul.
Domes of San Marco Mosaic floor tiles, San Marco
When we tired of paintings of saints and religious scenes we headed off to the Peggy Guggenheim Museum and its 20th Century modern art. Peggy was a friend and patron of many of the artists, bedded more than a few and even married some and the art that adorns her home was part of her daily life.
Peggy with Calder mobile Sculpture and painting
Modern art isn’t really my thing but I decided to give it another go. Rick Steves suggests you should not view the paintings as a critic but approach them as you would a piece of music. Just let it happen and see what emotions it evokes. Enjoy the colors as you would a melody, without trying to notice if the French horn was flat. It helped but some pieces were as annoying as hip-hop. I’ll take Monet over Mondrian and Pissarro over Pollack any day.
