FOLLOWING THE ITINERARY SHOULD BE EASY, driving on Bhutan’s roads more of a challenge. I don’t think we have seen a straight section of more than a few hundred meters. Bhutan is a land of hills, mountains, valleys, gorges and rivers where the roads follow snaking contours no matter how undulating. The roads, when not under construction, are filled with potholes and are often washed out by landslides. Ten kilometers “as the crow flies” are often three or four times as long in road distance and speeds in excess of 30 KPH are rare.
Rhodedendrons and Stupas, Dochula Pass
The road climbed to 10,000 feet at Dochula Pass where we stopped to see a group of 108 stupas and an array of Buddhist prayer flags. It was cold enough to require our polar fleece jackets but Penjur wore only his native “gho,” a knee-length bathrobe-like jacket worn with knee socks and oxford shoes. Clouds and fog blotted out views of Bhutan’s highest peaks but Connie kept Pam and Keiko entertained with some ad hoc birding.
Down, down, down we drove to Punakha and the confluence of the Phochu and Mochu rivers and Pungthang Dechen Phodrang, the Palace of Great Happiness. A.K.A. Punakha Dzong, it was built in the 17th Century and was the coronation site of Bhutan’s first king in 1907. Trust me, his name would mean nothing to you.
Palace of Great Happiness
After lunch we continued upstream to Khamsum Yuley Namgay Chorten. Getting to this mouthful of a temple requires a 45-minute hike across a suspension bridge bedecked with prayer flags, through rice paddies and up a rugged serpentine dirt path. Rene opted out, using the time honored “old ski injury” ploy and Pam, still jet-lagged, turned back halfway. Tiny 78-year old Keiko preserved the family honor and stuck it out all the way. Once at the top Penjur coerced us up another four storeys to the roof for views of the valley.
Connie crossing the bridge
Returning the way we came we didn’t reach our hotel in Wangdiphodrang until six o’clock. It isn’t nearly as nice as last night’s digs. Today was the first time in nearly a week that I have had an appetite so I ate sparingly. In a land where food can be fiery hot and chilies are a main ingredient, not a spice, they thankfully tone things down for foreigners. The hotel even has Diet Coke. Life is good.
