NOT MANY WESTERN TOURISTS VISIT DARJEELING high in the Bengal Hills, possibly deterred by the 3-hour ride from the nearest airport. Best known for tea, and the famous(ly disappointing) "Toy Railroad," Darjeeling is just a few kilometers from the Nepal border. For the 19th Century British, the hill station was a source for a “cuppa” and at 2100 meters, a respite from the summer heat. In these early days of spring, Darjeeling is cold and damp. Despite claims of wonderful views of the Himalayas, we can barely see the tea fields in the valley below.
Darjelling's tiny choo-choo
Our hotel of choice, Mohit, had some water problems so they upgraded us to their sister property, the Best Western RJ Resort. Clinging to a hillside, it’s an upside down kind of place with the reception entrance on the fourth floor and the rooms descending downhill. It takes some getting used to and I keep finding myself going down when I should be going up. Our wedge-shaped room, though nicely appointed, appears to be an afterthought, akin to sleeping in the bow of a ship. There is no central heating in the entire hotel and we are thankful for the electric space heater on cold nights.
We have a good location only a few minutes from “the Mall” and just uphill from Nightingale Park, where locals meet for morning yoga, martial arts and calisthenics. We have found it a sanctuary for new birds, 27 species in all. Because of the steepness you can look directly into the canopy while standing on the trail. It is really a blessing since the Singalila National Park which we hoped to visit, though only 26 kilometers away, requires half a day to reach by jeep. It isn’t an issue if you are prepared for a multi-day trek, but it poses problems for day-trippers.
Our first view of Khangchendozonga
It rained on last night and the sky was finally clear this morning. On our early morning drive back to Bagdogra, the Indian Himalayas and snow-covered Khangchendozonga, third highest in the world at 8598 meters, were visible for the first time. It wasn’t the sunrise most visitors drool over but the view was impressive.
