Salzburg has The Sound of Music, Udaipur has Octopussy; shows nightly at restaurants throughout town. Udaipur has been called the Venice of the East and the most romantic city in Rajasthan. But a poor monsoon can leave Lake Pichola looking more like an abandoned quarry. We are lucky – it isn’t Venice but Udaipur is quiet and relaxing – or it was until the amplified call of the muezzin rocked our little corner of town. Even the polluted canals of Venice can't compete with the smell of Udaipur's streets. The smell from the open sewers competes with the droppings of cows, sheep, goats, mule trains, dog packs and the odd elephant. Watch your step!
View of City Palace from our favorite restaurant
True, India is a predominantly Hindu nation but there is still a sizeable Muslim presence in the north. Even before India gained independence in 1947, the Muslim minority, concerned about its future, petitioned for an independent state. Pakistan, East and West, has been problematic ever since, spawning wars, terrorist attacks, retribution and a continuing tension. We couldn’t understand the muezzin’s words but his tone was anything but peace and brotherly love.
City Palace
After our rooftop breakfast (Every hotel has a rooftop restaurant, the higher the more prestigious.) we tuk-tuked to Nehru Park for some morning birding then onward to the City Palace. Construction began in 1600 and continued under a continuum of maharajas so the building, though cohesive, isn’t as symmetrical as Connie would like. The maharajas sure knew how to live it up. It isn’t as grand as a Turkish sultan’s digs or Alhambra but the goal was the same. The views from the top terraces are as interesting as the artwork and mosaics inside.
Peacock glass mosaic, City Palace
And here’s a surprise; it costs more to bring in a camera than for an entry ticket, even a foreigner. They made a bundle today on the German tour groups alone.
