AWESOME!!!!
Yusuf called me at 6 and had toast and marmalade ready. Pema collects me at 7 am and we drive to huge modern station. A showpiece, I think. No one minds me taking pics. I am so happy I could burst!
So luxurious, this soft class. Flowers, tablecloth, hot water thermos and, so far, have this 4 berth to muself. We had to sign a medical waiver form to get the ticket and soon chap comes in with plastic tube and mimes how to attach it to the oxygen outlet in case of need. Ha! Us intrepids who have spent a week at heights up to 5,200 metres have no need of oxygen! Wish I could get rid of this cough tho. And I wake every morning with a bloody nose. And smoking way less than usual. However..
11.15am On the yak line and above treeline. Herds of yaks munching what looks like moss; some standing patiently at frozen watercourses.
In the dining car the waiters smoke and so do I. The waitresses have no smiles for Sherpa Fran - and no offer of food or drink either. This is probably not going to be another party on wheels. The two Viennese chaps are not inclined to conversation so have nap and then go back to dining car where I meet mattie, an Italian musician and great beauty, then Carla and Martin who I have seen here and there in Tibet. Friendliness ensues. My ashtray is taken away when uniforms come in to eat. No one could call the staff warm and C and M are not allowed to sit and eat their bento lunch at the table but have to take them back to their cabin.
Carla says my camera battery problem is probably becuase they are too cold so I rescued 4 from the bin and have them tucked into my pocket. The y all join me in my palace for fruit, pistachios, dates. We have fun and, later when the train stops, more fun as half the Red Army gets on the train and is seen off by the other half. They are very young boys and girls and from the hugs, tearful farewells and photographing each other, I assume that they have finished their tour here in the wilds and are off back to Beijing.
10.30 pm. I am joined in my palace by slim, elegant Chinese woman who looks horrified to be sharing with forn backpacker, especially one who has stuff spread all over the cabin. cannot be helped - maybe we will be best of friends in 12 hours.
