I will miss: Yoghurt and fruit, turkish coffee and black kitten at the Waterpipe cafe. Mosques singing to each other at dusk. The changing enchanting population at the Big Apple hostel in Sultanahmet. Nipping across the Bosphorous on an errand. Walking the streets of Istanbul in my Headscarf of Invisibilty. The graves along Divan Yolu. Not going into Agia Sophia. Jon Tringham and Margaret, his Brompton folding bike.
One last kebab with Jon, one last sigaro with Fergus and we set off for the tram. Fergus carried my bag like a Glaswegian gentleman. Sad goodbyes and photos.
Ferry closed! I am directed to the Galata bridge, think 'Sod that' and take a cab. On the meter 4.05 and so relieved it is not another ripoff that tip largely.
Sublimely beautiful night ferry ride - Karakoy to Hyderpasa with two students enjoying my aniseed balls. Find train, find Hashemi clan and Habibe. Left Tehran on the 11.55 pm Trans-Asia Express.