research, research, research. Narrowed trip agents down to three. Difficult to know who to trust as there are 500 bicycle rickshaws in KTM and 800 travel agents.
The one that looks like ex-boyf is more expensive as 'taxes' added but I like him. Trekker's Society - warmly spoken of on Thorntree - is not running tours this late but could do individual trip for $1200. Maybe I can find a companion? Other one is halfway reasonable and I trust them as I walked into their office off Tridevi Marg - they were not touting for custom like most agents.
None of the above. Just booked trip with guy used by this hotel. Using this one as a) I know where he lives: b) he is the clearest about the visa situation (Thorntree says utterly impossible): and c) he is cheaper than the ex-boyf.All done. Paid $785 which includes 7 day tour of Tibet in Landcruiser with guide and driver, Tibet permit, train fare (soft class) to Beijing, entrance fees into monasteries, breakfast and hotels. Reasonable if a lot of cash. Celebrate with apfel strudel and coffee.
Booked my bus to Pokhara 400r. researched clothes and sleeping bag but they can wait till I get back as sick of carrying heavy bag. Need a bigger bag anyway, sorry, Simon. Fergus has offered to take stuff when he flies home.
KTM is restful in a frantic way. Altho hassled constantly in the narrow winding streets by sellers of tigerbalm, buddhas, beads, drugdealers and rickshaw drivers, it is all very normal and a bit like North London.
Haircut and violent head massage which has cheered me enormously and someone is making me a 'Woman in seat 61' tshirt - which I think I deserve.