Lunch at the Roadside Cafe, cool and elegant with rattan blinds and Lavazza coffee. Humus and crudites. Just got back from Baluwater travel agency. No way to Tibet from Nepal as getting a visa is like getting one from iran, only worse. China to Nepal is poss, just not my way.
Fergus will be in Sam's at 7pm. Will buy him a beer. Long argument at hotel again over a/c charge. Paid but feel really stupid for a)making a fuss over 4 pounds and b)not standing my ground forever and waiting till they got tired.
Visit Boudanath Temple which is just what you want. Huge stupa, lots of monks and nuns, lots of little shops selling sacred items and kitsch, old people walking round and round twirling prayer wheels (clockwise). Bought manadal for C at Tushita Heaven and sobbed when he showed me one he had painted himself. Outside sat on a step and shared cigarette with tiger balm seller. Cab back to Thamel and pleasant walk home. Offered drugs on all sides. Later met Fergus and Ian and good talk at Sam's Bar. Not much sleep as pack of dogs barked and howled all night.