God, this Amir Kabir hostel is a dump! the man washing down the loos first thing is also the guy who makes the breakfast.
First H and his wife arrive with armful of presents, poetry by Hafez and others. Then P and her children and mum arrive to take me to the bus station. Not only that she books my seat and pays the fare and I cannot stop her. They have presents for me too - it is too much. really sorry to leave them Damn this short visa - I could stay in Esfahan forever.
I travel with Hamsafar to Yazd. 5 hours and not comfortable. Tea at Yazd bus station with old ex-Navy man who knows America well. Taxi to the Silk Road hotel but full and taken to sister establishment, the Orient. Built on the caravanserai model with rooms round a central courtyard, the Orient is stunning. Again with the rooftop terrace for meals and make some good friends.
Stayed up till 4.30 am talking with David, a pilot from England and Sami the waiter who has better English after 4 months than many native speakers.An Afghan refugee who uses words like 'invidious' and streptococcal'. David and I in state of wonder.