DESPITE THE PERSISTENT DRIZZLE we walked the three miles along the Perfume River to Thien Mu Pagoda, part of the Complex of Hue Monuments. The term “pagoda” is confusing, as is much about this entire UNESCO World Heritage Site. Thien Mu Pagoda is actually a temple complex also known as “Heaven Fairy Lady.” It was built in 1601, fulfilling a local legend predicting that a Lord would build a Buddhist pagoda on this hill for the country’s prosperity. The complex also includes Dai Hong Chung, an enormous bell cast in 1710 and a massive marble turtle, a symbol of longevity.
Mom and Son paying their respects
Marble Turtle from 1741, Thien Mu Pagoda
Phuoc Duyen Tower—what we would call the pagoda—wasn’t built until 1884. It is the tallest stupa in Vietnam and has a statue of Buddha on each of the seven floors. Over the years Phuoc Duyen has become the unofficial symbol of Hue. Got it?
John lools a little Dinky Dau
We first visited Thien Mu in 2008 on a local boat, long before the Dragon Boat craze so today’s outing was mostly for exercise. When we began walking the five kilometers back to town, the dragon boat drivers figured we were Dinky Dau for turning down their offer for a ride. That’s GI-speak for dien cai dau, “crazy in the head” in Vietnamese.
