There is always one glitch. Just as well I discovered it days before leaving - the Airline had my old passport details. Frantic phone-calls ensued and all was fixed. Thank heavens for online check-in!
I don't know why, but when I travel by bus I can hardly keep my eyes open but I've never mastered the art of sleeping on planes. We arrived into Honolulu at 7.am through the most malignant cloud mass I've ever seen - just before landing we seemed to be in the calm centre of a black and brown swirling mass. There was an eerie silence in the plane, so I assume I wasn't the only one with misgivings. But we landed safely and uneventfully, and into the tropical heat of Honolulu. Luckily our hotel room was ready and a long nap was the order of the day - and we woke to brilliant sunshine.
The five days in Honolulu went quickly. We'd been here before so there wasn't the frenzy to see all the sights, so these few days were used for sleeping, relaxing and a bit of shopping. Then onto the boat - the "Rhapsody of the Seas".
Another five days at sea followed. Luckily we are seasoned cruisers and go prepared for these days. King Neptune briefly joined the ship to initiate all the Pollywogs (those who have never sailed over the Equator). An early visit to the ship's Library, our own books and puzzles, the ship's Coffee Shop and exploration of the boat filled the days nicely. It gives you an opportunity to talk to strangers, and what interesting strangers you meet! People from all walks of life and all part of the globe. Companions for the journey!
The first port of call was Pago Pago in American Samoa. I was imaging this to be something like Hawaii - laid back Island culture, but with American infrastructure. To my surprise it had very little of the second bit. I'm not sure America remembers it "owns" this island. Pago Pago is like a small down-at-heel seaside resort. There was no mobile coverage and no Internet access that anyone could find. The cars were all old and the buses were wooden and mostly didn't have windows. But the island itself is very pretty and the people were amazingly friendly. They have about 20 Cruise ships per year and when one is in, EVERYONE knows. Wherever we went people waved and smiled. Strangely enough the two favourite sports are Rugby and Cricket. I went on one of the ship's excursions to watch the sunset (a favourite activity of mine) and we went to a private home on the western side of the island. Wonderful hospitality as we sat on their verandah, sipping drinks and watching whales frolic in the ocean as we waited for the spectacular sunset. This shore was inundated by the tsunami in 2009, and the owners talked of the earthquake and tsunami, which made it very real to us.
Between American Samoa and Samoa we went over the International date-line, so although the date was two days on, it was only the next day when we arrived at Samoa. Samoa looked prosperous in comparison. Apia is a larger city, although there is still damage obvious from Cyclone Evan last year. Samoa too had been hit by the 2009 Tsunami, although I gather that was in a different part of the island. The people here are much more used to tourists , so we weren't treated like royalty, although still made to feel welcome. Highlight for me here was the house of Robert Louis Stevenson - or Tusitala, the "Teller of Tales", as the Samoans called him. People's houses are fascinating, and how surprising to see a Buddha on a shelf in one room - and a lion-skin rug (complete with head) in another. People are such complex creatures. Even famous people!
Third port was Suva, in Fiji. I'd been here before and had toured around the city and been to the cultural fire-walking and kava ceremonies. So another wander around the shopping precincts and markets. Next stop, Vila in Vanuatu. Again, a repeat visit, so this time I went off on one of the Ship's Excursions to a Cultural Village, where we were instructed in "the old ways". after being challenged by war-like warriors and being accepted by the Chief. This was very interesting and I realized that on previous cruises the Cultural Excursions have been the most memorable. Everywhere in the world has pretty scenery, but the culture of a place is unique. Our final stop, though, was a beauty stop - the Isle of Pines. which is part of New Caledonia. Stunning white sand and amazing aqua and turquoise water, ringed by Pines and other trees. But what I loved most was the driftwood - twisted and blanched by the sun and salt. When a tree falls, it appears to be left in place and these amazing shapes result.
We sailed back into Sydney at 5am - with the sky just lightening. It was the day of the Fleet Review and the Harbour was packed: they needed us off quickly. The "Rhapsody of the Seas" does this trip twice a year - at the beginning and the end of our Cruise Season. Worth doing, especially if you get a package that includes Airfare and the hotel in Honolulu. You do need to be prepared for the days at sea. The staff are well trained and always friendly and helpful. My only criticism is that they add a daily amount onto the Cruise account for gratuities - then give you envelopes for the "WOW" factor. That's tips on top of a "fee".
The Pacific Ocean is enormous. A cruise gives you a lasting admiration for the early explorers who did all that in small sailing ships with no stabilizers. Even more so for the Polynesians who sailed in the tiny boats without the aid of maps, and who populated the whole area. Without any of the comforts we had!
