He only went out for some milk A blurb of monstrous proportions - it was only supposed to be a couple of lines and the odd photo.

I was looking forward to Granada, described by some as the jewel of Nicaragua - my first impressions aren't so good though.  A heaving market, lots of rubbish, squashed vegetables and fruit in the street, a jostling crowd dodging fume spewing vehicles, dozens of TVs blaring out everything from Pokemon to kung-fu, a million dodgy Cd's and DVD´s stacked along the side of the road and lots of competing stereos doing their best to get through the whole collection.  Did i mention the noise, the dirt or the smells?

Ignoring first impressions as I've learnt to do, I've now come to quite like Granada.  Most of it was burnt to the ground by a filibuster called William Walker about 150 years ago and now the whole town has been restored, or is still in the process of restoration.  The result is a colourful maze of characterful streets, rustic houses and beautiful churches all of which can be purveyed by horse drawn carts for the rich and touristy.  The central park is a delight, mango trees provide shade for perfectly placed, people watching benches.  Lined old men spend their days sat around talking while the women take care of the tiny stands selling nicknack's only a tourist could find a use for.  All is overlooked by gorgeous cafes, churches and hotels.  The whole town is virtually one level high and the view from one of the church towers is spectacular - not a KFC in sight.

Of course it's not all good; tourists and beggars are everywhere, and a walk down a side street becomes a tour de force of smells - fumes, food, the ever present urine and the stomach pervading scent of horse poo.  Outside the main drag it doesn't have the safest feeling at night time...I like Granada though, it grows on me everyday.