It's been dark an hour, I'm clambering over volcanic rocks in the middle of seemingly nowhere. A little LED torch with the power of a baby glow worm is lighting my way, the noise of the ocean is to my right, the glow of flowing lava is up ahead - i don't think I'm supposed to be here, i don't think this is safe or wise...
Volcanoes National Park contains one of the worlds most active volcanoes, apparently there are more than 1200 measurable earthquakes here every week, today there are sulphur dioxide warnings galore, areas closed off, accessible steam vents, lava tubes you can walk though, an amazing 'crater' you can drive around and a long, winding road down 'Chain of Craters' to the coast. The road is now closed at the bottom as it's covered in lava. It's also a little dangerous as a big 'shelf' of land collapsed into the ocean a few years back, killing one and seriously injuring many others. I've decide to drive down the road at night - to see the glow of lava. The signs say the flow is inaccessible, but for whatever reasons, i decide (upon reaching the end of the road) that I'll hike to the lava.
The rock is extremely sharp and full of cracks and crevices. It crunches and occasionally moves underfoot as i walk on it. It's a tough walk in the dark and my reasonably new shoes are soon not so reasonable - at least they aren't talking to me like my last pair. It's not long before I'm covered in sweat, i can't see any signs of civilisation, the glow of the lava has disappeared, and my imagination is working overtime. I'm expecting the land to give way, to fall down a crevice, to be knocked over by an earthquake or be attacked my a werewolf. I really am stupid to be here. My little light keeps going out too, it has a power saving mode i now realise, but the first time it happens i don't remember this, instead I decide to scare myself silly. I swear it gets dimmer every time i switch it back on too. It's 40 minutes before i decide enough is enough - the glow has reappeared and it's no closer. I just have to navigate my way back to the road - a thin sliver of smooth land in a jagged landscape, there are no lights, no trails and a only a slip of a moon.
I stumble and slide my way back along what i hope is the right way, it all looks the same until i reach some plants. I never went past them on the way. 40 minutes later and i arrive on the road only a few meters from where i left it. My relief was audible. Two aliens greet me by the side of the road, a shooting star passes overhead, i get a grip of myself and walk past the two dustbins up the road towards my car. I'll be spending the night in it to save some money - it's no surprise that i don't get any sleep that night. I'm also pretty sure there's an earthquake big enough to shake the car in the middle of the night...knowing me, there probably wasn't one.
Big island is just the nickname for the island of Hawaii - it's one the youngest, it's also the biggest and it's home to night diving with Manta Rays. Booking this is virtually the first thing i do when i arrive after a short, bumpy and picturesquely cool flight. I've timed it right for a 'black water dive' - over a mile off shore, to be tied on lines in a current, in very deep water where upwards streams bring critters from the deep to the surface. It sounds eerie and awesome. It takes me a while to get accommodation - no where is cheap, and lots of places are full. A quick check-out of Kona, a not bad but fairly touristy built up town and then I'm ready for some diving. But then it rain, and rains, and rains and just to cancel the dives, it flashes a bit of lightning too. The whole day is a washout - no diving, no real sightseeing.
I really want to do the manta night dive, so I'm up early arranging whatever dive i can. It's annoying as it means i have to be back in Kona for the early afternoon. I head-up the coast, it's a windswept, fairly dry looking volcanic landscape, with a snow capped volcano on my right and schools of humped back whales travelling up the coast with me on my left. Amazing. It's a beautiful drive with some stunning coastal scenery and some Hawaiian history.
I get back just in time for the dives. Spinner dolphins say goodbye to us as we leave the bay, we have one cold (I'm a wimp) dive seeing lots of eels and an octopus before waiting for the sun to set for our night dive. There's a nice sunset, but no green flash, and a bizarre set-up next to us with lots of snorkelers holding onto rings in the water. Big lights have been placed on the ocean bed and we are all holding big torches. The more krill and stuff we attract the more rays we attract is the theory. 50 minutes later, lots of crabs, a couple of lobsters, no rays and a mild case of hypothermia and I'm glad to be leaving. I'm not surprised there were no Mantas with the circus show we all took part in. I'm a little disappointed, but hey the sky is showing a billion stars, the spray from the boat is lit up with fairies (bio-luminescence) and I'm in Hawaii - life is pretty good.
My last day is spent crazily trying to see as much as the island as possible; cool Volcano town, mouldy Hilo, and of course Volcanoes national park - but that place is rubbish ;-)
