I came to Stewart Island for some quiet time with nature, my books and to catch up on some sleep. So it didn't quite go to plan. New mates, Christmas dinner with some locals, golf lessons from experts, a lovely stay with an Octogenarian (I'm currently gardening to earn my keep), honoury membership of the scrabble club (because i always lose) and knackered feet from bad shoes and too much tramping.
I skipped down the east coast from Christchurch via Dunedin and Invercargil to take a ferry from Bluff to Oban on Stewart Island. Invercargil is of course home to the worlds most southern Starbucks (thank you Tony) and Dunedin is a nice town worth mentioning - but not now. The crossing was surprisingly good - i only decided to feel seasick when i tried to read (when will i ever learn). I had a reservation in Jo & Andy's B&B for a couple of days (my Christmas present to myself), then i was going to walk the Rakiura track and then have another night in the B&B and decide what to do next.
I liked the feel of Oban straight away; one pub, one shop, no banks and quaint houses and a church overlooking Halfmoon bay wrapped in a small community feel that's comfortable. I liked the B&B too - homely and full of books. I'd expected a quiet Christmas instead i found myself with fellow travellers, drinking bottles of beer while watching sunsets, enjoying the live music of Craig Smith and his Wonky Donkey song, and trying whiskey from the original Oban. As preparation for the track i hired a mountain bike to cycle the 27km of roads, discovering that 1st gear is not low enough. My calves ached like hell and i felt tired before I'd even started walking - this is one hilly place. I love the little bays, the birds - wow the birds! So loud, so close, and so many...now i know what a Weka and a Tui is, i even saw a Sea Lion very close up. I thought it was a rock and nearly walked into it! I just have to see an elusive kiwi - then I'll be happy. Hence my main reason for walking the Rakiura track - kiwi spotting.
