The Serra Verde Express, a luxury train through the Atlantic Rainforest, runs every Saturday and Sunday at 9:15 from Curitiba to Morretes. If the $150 price tag seems too high for a four-hour train ride, a regular train leaves an hour earlier. Economy seats cost $35 or you can upgrade as we did to Executive class for $55. Whichever you choose, all of the trains use the same tracks and all the cars on a train arrive at the same time.
The trains move at a sedate 25 kph, with several stops to allow priority freight trains to pass carrying soybeans, cotton and other goods to the port city of Paranagua. Even at a snail's pace it is a dizzying ride. Open vistas are rare and the lush foliage of the rainforest passes only inches from the open windows. Eugene, our coach guide, gave a count-down as we approached an open place for a photo op: 3-2-1-clickclickclick. Our train carried about 900 men, women, teens and kids - all out for a good time. There was much hooting and whooping through each of the thirteen tunnels, spurred on by the men encouraged with their early morning beers; beer, coffee, soft drinks and snacks are complimentary in Executive class. We were the only non-Brazilians in our car but Eurgene took time to give us the lowdown in English.
Hanging out
It would have been faster - and cheaper - to take the bus to Morretes but not nearly as scenic. We would have missed the lush rainforest with its colorful flowers and occassional waterfalls. Besides, there is something special about a train, isn't there.
Manaca da Serra blossoms
The passengers melted away into Morretes, some to lunch, others to the bus station for a return to Curitiba or, like us, onward to Paranagua. Brazil's second-largest port won't attract a lot of tourists but it is where you can find a boat to Ilha do Mel, Honey Island, where we will head tomorrow.
Sailing from Paranagua