IT WAS A GOOD DAY FOR TRAVEL. Rain streaked across the windows as the train trudged along the coast, through seaside tunnels and up into the hills towards Nagano. Another local, and we had the carriage nearly to ourselves.
Small town Nagano, making soba noodles
Nagano, you may remember, was the site of the ’98 Olympic Winter Games. If you don’t remember, there is nothing in Nagano’s small town feel today to even hint at its onetime brush with celebrity. The big draw now — as it was before the Olympic flame — is the 7th Century temple of Zenko-ji which houses the Ikko-Sanzon, the first Buddhist image to arrive in Japan. No one, even the emperors, has actually seen the statue, which is wrapped mummy-like in an ark behind the altar but a replica is paraded among the people every seven years.
Blessings at three-years old, Zenko -ji
Pilgrims visit Zenko-ji whose liberal priest and priestess welcome all faiths, religions and both (or more?) genders. Today there was flock of three-year old girls (geisha-ettes?) in traditional costume who came to the temple for blessings and good fortune.