ZAYA’S BACKPACKER HOSTEL WAS PRETTY MUCH what we expected, but less than we hoped considering how nice the Platinum Hotel was. We are sharing a triple with Ann from Lancashire, England and the communal bathrooms with everyone else. Sure, it’s more comfortable than camping but not what we want to remember for the next two weeks.
Meeting at Zaya's Backpacker hostel
The group assembled in the common area at six. Gana and Scott are from the Denver Zoo, nearly home for us. Scott is the veterinarian and Gana, who is a native Mongolian, will run the program along with two Mongolian biologists. The Earthwatch crew includes Ann, Canadian Carol, “Tats” from Yokohama, Jeanette from NYC via Florida, Bryan from Anchorage and Stephanie from Manilla. Colleen from Scotland will turn out to be a god-send. She is something between staff and a volunteer, has been here several times before and speaks a little Mongolian. We all got acquainted and stuffed at a Chinese restaurant then headed off to bed.
A bit of the Trans-Mongolian Express
Our road to Ikh Nart Nature Reserve began with seven hours on a comfortable but tortoise-paced train followed by an hour of breakneck off-road racing by our Mongolian NASCAR wanna-bee drivers. Camp consists of nine “gers” (think yurts), two shipping containers, a two-stall shower block, a two-seater composting outhouse and an open-air gazebo. The kitchen ger is next to the dining ger and there is always a toasty stove going in each. We are sharing our ger with Bryan and Tats. It is spacious and much warmer than a tent, especially with a fire laid in the central stove. Electricity is provided by solar panels and a back-up Honda generator but there are only 3 outlets for charging computers, batteries and whatnot. “Sun showers” lie like fat lizards on a large rock, passively, everyone hopes, heating enough water for showers. Camping veterans we heat our water on the stove and ladle it sparingly for bathing, a warmer and more reliable option.
Amazing meals from a primative kitchen
The dining ger is the focal point of camp and there are always thermoses of hot water for tea or coffee. The food is simple, plentiful and hot — salads, soups, meat and pasta mains with fruit for desert. Breakfast is at 8 o’clock, lunch around one and dinner at 7:30. We’re supposed to help out with clean-up but the kitchen staff usually shoos us out. I guess we aren’t experienced enough to wash dishes.
