WE HAVE SEEN ATLANTIC PUFFINS BEFORE, of course, in both England and Newfoundland. But we always have time for these clowns of the bird world, so we drove north from Egilsstadir to Hafnarholmi nesting site on Borgarfjordur. We expected the cold and blustery weather - puffins nest in burrows on sea cliffs - but the drive over the coastal mountains was a harrowing surprise.
Black-footed kittiwakes
When we first arrived at the nesting site we thought we were too early in the season for puffins. There was only one peeking down at us. Soon a few flew in followed by dozens. Then we noticed hundreds sitting on the water among the eiders. The rocks below the puffin burrows were covered with nesting northern fulmars and black-footed kittiwakes while others nearly dive bombed us.
Along the east coast
The official word is that the entire Ring Road is paved. Not true. Sections, mostly the steepest, most harrowing sections, are gravel requiring slow speeds and steely nerves. And they don't show on the maps! Surprise. So the drive over the mountains to Hofn was a bit of an adventure with few reasons (and fewer places) to stop for a photo until we reached the sea.
Along the east coast
