WE WERE HOODWINKED - OR MAYBE IT WAS HORSWOGGLED - by the guidebooks. Both Lonley Planet and Frommer raved about a houseboat tour of the Kerala Backwaters. LP went so far as to rate it the #2 top experience in India, just behind the Taj Mahal. Granted, a two-night "cruise" on Lake Vembanad and the area around Alleppey is relaxing. The houseboat is comfortable, the food OK, and the service pretty good. The scenery is undoubtedly tropical as you drift along banana, coconut and mango tree lined waterways past villagers going about their lives. But it is hot, nearly 100 degrees, and humid. And the scenery doesn't change much - if you've seen one coconut palm....
Relaxing on deck
The boats must be anchored or moored by six PM giving the local fishermen exclusive use of the waterway for their nets. The first night we moored 200 meters from a highway bridge and within earshot of a village blasting Hindi music through loudspeakers. When we complained that the backwaters were supposed to be remote, our captain motored across the river, hardly better. We eventually got him to move to a quiet place. He did better on night two and we docked just before the thundestorms hit. It was great to be under cover during the torrential rain.
Morning canoe delivery
We tried to book a three-night cruise with Frommer recommended Soma Tours but could arrange only two nights. Lucky us. If you have been harried by India perhaps a stint on the backwaters is just what the doctor ordered. And if you are new to travel, all this may seem exotic. I guess your satisfaction will be determined by your previous experience and your expectations. We have a lot of experience (on the Mekong, Nile, and Amazon) and expected much more. As it was, we would have been just as happy in a 5-star hotel watching the Discovery Channel - for half the cost. Besides, we are really over India. Time to move on.
