IT TAKES JUST ONE LOOK AT THE CARVINGS on Lakshamana Temple to understand how India managed to grow its population to 1.2 billion. Even a thousand years ago they were a horny bunch! Screwing - in an astounding viariety of positions - and mellon-breasted women aren't the dominant themes but they are the main tourist attraction.
Kama Sutra in stone
In addition to the Kama Sutra erotica, the intricate carvings depict life in India 1000 years ago, from war to domestic scenes. A woman removing a thorne from her sole is an often repeated favorite and the guides tell wonderful tales about many of the carvings in heavily accented English, German and Spanish.
Plucking a thorne
Erotica aside, the temples are architectural masterpieces. Their proportions approach perfection, the carvings are elegant and the sandstone contrasts wonderfully against the blue sky. Khajuraho is a wonderful example of what a UNESCO World Heritage site should be and would serve as an inspiration for places like Hampi. The town itself is dusty and noisy, no surprise, especially during the month-long Shiva festival. Hotel Surya doesn't have much in the way of kerb appeal but once inside it opens to a colorful garden. Our upgraded room was a bargain for $22 with garden views and cable TV. The hotel even has a travel agency where we booked onward flights to Varanasi and beyond. Best of all, the Mediterraneo, an Italian restaurant with a chef trained in Rome, is just across the street. Just the treat we needed after a week of all-Indian veggie fare.
