We sometimes forget – what with all the namaste-ing and karma-questing – that the maharajas of days gone by were warriors by trade. When they weren’t financing temples they were busy fending off encroaching Mughals and fighting among themselves. Safety and security demanded strong, defendable, walled fortresses. And the Amber Fort (the “b” is silent) near Jaipur is the most impressive. Amber sits on the hillside, glowing pink in the morning sun. The formidable walls stretch into the hazy distance, like a “Great Wall of India.” You don’t need an elephant to carry you to the fort – it’s an easy climb – but the painted pachyderms certainly add to the ambiance. I can almost see them carrying dignitaries to the Amber Palace and the Jain Temples.
Painted Elephants
Jaipur itself is less than inspiring. The “Pink City” is a faded, dirty salmon and the City Palace lacks the charm of Udaipur’s. The only redeeming site is Jantar Mantar, the observatory, with its collection of gigantic astronomical instruments. While they still function as advertised, Jantar Mantar is more of a scientific sculpture garden.
Science as Art
Nothing at Hotel Veer Castle worked as advertised, despite owner George’s efforts. Our upgraded room was OK but the shower barely trickled. Ordering breakfast was too much of an ordeal to undertake before coffee, and it took more than an hour for us to settle our bill. It wasn't the most romantic Valentine's Day we've ever had. Nor was it the worst.
My Happy Valentine (the flowers are borrowed!)
