We fared a bit better on the overnight bus from Goa to Hampi thanks to a massive dose of Bonnine. The archeological site of Hampi contains more than 2000 Hindu temples from the 14th to 16th Centuries spread over 20 square kilometers, much too far to walk especially with my recently acquired plantar fasciitis. Renting motorbikes seemed a suicidal option so we hired Ravi and his auto-rickshaw (think Thai tuk-tuk) for the duration. It is affordable, safe(ish) and Ravi knows all of the popular sites.
To fully appreciate Hampi you have to understand the basics of Hinduism. It has no founder or central authority except Brahman, the eternal, uncreated and infinite. All of the other gods and goddesses – and there are many – are just knowable aspects of Brahman with Shiva, the creator and Vishnu, the destroyer the most prominent. Hindus believe there are many paths that lead to many gods and it seems that each has a temple or ten here in Hampi. If you don't have the time (or desire) to bone up on religion, find your own Ravi. The'll compete for your attention.
Ravi and his auto rickshaw
The temples are in two main areas, the Sacred Center and the Royal Center. The Sacred Center or Hampi Bazaar is undergoing massive renewal including the demolition of squatters’ homes and shops that have encroached on the religious sites over the centuries. It’s a mess now but shows promise for the future.
We checked into the Vijayshree Resort and spent the rest of the day getting our feet wet (and massaged) so to speak. “Our” side of the Tungabhadra River is strictly Hindu – no alcohol and no meat – so many tourists stay on the other side in simple, cheap backpackers’ lodges on the edge of the rice paddies. Ten rupees gets you a boat crossing past those cleansing their souls while others wash their clothing, a small price to pay for a beer.
Lotus Mahal in the Royal Center
The Virupaksha Temple sits in the center of the Sacred Center. This temple complex is still used daily by the faithful, and most of the Hindus faithfully attend every day and wear the red dot on their foreheads to prove it. The Lotus Mahal is the highlight of the Royal Center. With so many temples to so many manifestations of strange gods it is easy to lose track of what’s what and things start to run together; Elephant Stables, Queen’s Bath, Vitthala Temple and Ganagitti Jain Temple. Each has its own history, architecture and myth. All have intricately carved reliefs that tell a story. I envision a cold winter’s day years from now when we look back at the photos and try to sort it all out. You can take a look at your leisure.
