We scored a cozy apartment on the Hopfensee just outside of Fussen. It was the most affordable option in the area with free WiFi and parking and it came with the bonus of a kitchenette and fantastic views.
A room with a view
The Fussen area makes a good base for exploring Oberammergau and the most famous of “Mad King Ludwig’s castles. Famous for its once a decade Passion Plays, Oberammergau was nearly deserted on this cold Wednesday morning. Not even the famous woodcarving shops were open. Home crafts like woodcarving (and cuckoo clock making) have been popular winter occupations in this poor area of Europe for centuries and the woodcarving school in Oberammergau has earned a reputation for excellence. The 20 students accepted each year (from hundreds of applicants) can expect a lifetime’s work restoring centuries-old churches.
Oberammergau
Rather than wait until 2020 for the next Passion Play, we took advantage of the sunshine to marvel at Oberammergau’s buildings, most decorated with biblical paintings and faux-architectural elements. And the early season snow made everything even more charming.
Hohenschangau
No visit would be complete without a visit to Hohenschwangau, Ludwig’s boyhood home and his dream schloß, the iconic Neuschwanstein, the inspiration for Disney’s Magic Kingdom. We didn’t join the throng of mostly Asian tourons for the castle tours but hiked up the slushy road for a close-up view. The bright sunlight that bathed Hohenschwangau barely touched the towers of Neuschwanstein, shadowed by alpine peaks. We skirted a couple of “Geschlossen!” signs to tramp the snowy path to Marienbruke, Mary’s Bridge, for the most picturesque views of the castle, especially enjoying our flaunting of Teutonic order.
The view from Marienbrucke, worth the effort
