Lighting out for the territory nce more in the Middle East. The more I travel the more I want to travel and the longer that I am out of England the happier I am. At present in Iraq and having a wonderful time. really fallen in love with the country and the people. Very glad I came and

The bus is amazing - actually a Volvo coach with snacks and a movie and reclining seats.At 1.30 am we stop at truck stop for tea. How cool is this? I am chased by chai man for 500 rials as forgotten to pay. At one point we pass a motorway sign that seems very normal until I read it and it says 'Persian Gulf' like we might have 'Luton' This makes me laugh at how ordinary the exotic is. Fantastic trip. I have made friends with P. and her mum and two children coming home to esfahan. They put their heads together and announce that they cannot leave me alone at the bus station at 5am and I am coming home with them. we are all picked up by P's husband and put to bed. Woke at 8.30 to most hospitable and wonderful people who cannot do enough for this stranger. P takes the day off work, the children bunk school and they all show me round Imam Square and the bazaar and esfahan generally. That eveing we go to the arched bridges and look downriver. It is quite lovely. I stay the night but tomorrow must get to Amir Kabir hostel to get news of further on down the line. It is hard to explain this to P and especially her mum who thinks they have offended me in some way. I am allowed but promise to come back for dinner with P's brother and wife that evening.