day 1 of 12 Iran visa.
Off ferry and onto next train. 4pm we killed someone! An old man sat on the track and committed suicide by train. Not uncommon, they say. We are delayed by only half an hour which is really sad. In Tabriz I change money and have ONE MILLION RIALS! I shall buy a house!
I have no idea what I am going to do next. Have thought no further than Tehran - and that seemed so impossible for so long. So rather nervous and irritable and grumpy from the usual 'Visa! Passport! Ticket! Visa!'in the small hours. So itinerary may include Esfahan, Persepolis, Yadz, Zoroastrians, tomb of Hafez at Shiraz. I want to be in India for Diwali on the 29th.
9.30 - Standing at the window of the train at some small station. An Iranian gentleman is beside me. He gestures at a chador clad woman on the platform. 'See this woman? My culture - very back[ward]'. To my horror, his eyes are full of tears. Bed, up, bed. Shouted up at 2 am but we don't get into Tehran itself until 4. Our 72 hour ride took 76 hours. We take cab to Hotel Firouzeh and bang on th door till bleary bloke lets us in. Pillow is full of sand or birdseed and remarkably comfortable.
