I arrived back in Dali, and bartered for a
cheap taxi to the old town, Dali gu cheng. Booked in to a new hostel, very cozy
and calm, with very friendly staff, which is great! I shared a two-bed dorm
with a Swiss fellow, who almost caught me undressed on our first encounter! I
still had lots to iron out on my assignment so the sunny days of last week were
mostly spent indoors writing and referencing. Fun. It was nice to chat with
people at the Bad Monkey again, yet I have a very strange attitude these days
when it comes to meeting people. Somewhere like Dali, I don’t like being a
traveler. I enjoy the place more when surrounded by friends. This last visit
was a rollercoaster of crazy so I’m not surprised at my bipolar-like emotions
lately.
Basically on Saturday, I had finished a
second draft of my assignment that I am reasonably happy with. It was time for
a night of drinking. I hadn’t had a real good night, letting go, since leaving
Dalian, so Saturday eve at the Bad Monkey was my mission. The pouring was light
so I powered through my first 8 Jameson, but like a clever drunk I only take
out so much cash, and I distinctly remember thinking, I am quite happy, with
enough cash for one more drink. Then the night got out of control. I was making
friends with two cool guys from England who are visiting the owners of the bar,
Carl and Scott, both great guys themselves. Then some Chinese man who was
chugging back beer, in the typical ‘gambei’ style of China, started getting me
my own glass to gambei with, but I don’t drink beer, so three or four glasses
later… Also I recognized Elliot, an old acquaintance from two years ago. We
talked and he bought me more drinks. I remember falling over in the middle of the
street as others motored off to bed, Christina collected me, informed me of my inebriation, and gave me a glass of water. Angel. Then I was escorted to my
hostel, unhappily anticipating the hurt that will come.
Sunday I woke at 8am, drunk. Food, then
sleep more. Same again in the afternoon, but I stupidly searched for a greasy
hamburger, and found the most miserable excuse for food in Café de Jack. (Now
blacklisted!!!) I had two bites of the burger and left it on the table in disgust.
As evening approached the town was astir. The Fire Festival of Dali began. I
grabbed a coffee at the Monkey, and then back to the hostel to relax and shower,
before the night begins. Carl told me a week ago about the absurd nature of
this festival. A long time ago, two men from two rival villages in the vicinity
of Dali, the Yi and the Bai, had a disagreement over a woman...more or less.
One village’s elders took their guy back to his house and told him to settle,
and resolve the issue, as the other villagers were a bit loose. Meanwhile,
determined to have their way, the other village had set out to burn the house
of the guy who had started the mess. All the village elders were burned alive
too. And so goes the history of the most mental celebration of fire I, and all
others, will ever take part in.
I headed back to the Monkey for their
Sunday Roast, which was awesome. Then, not knowing what to expect or prepare
for, I wandered around the streets where fire filled fun had begun. The police were
stopping the torches going down Renmin Rd, where the Bad monkey was biding its
time. So at the intersections at either end, chaos was conquering. Big totem
torches decorated and in flames stood outside most establishments. Torches
blazing held in the hands of many, young and old, were flying about. Bags of pine resin were
littered around, hanging from belt straps of boys, handfuls being thrust toward
the fire to create a giant explosive balls of flame. Families grabbed and counted and
threw, in my spot taking pictures I was engulfed, repeatedly, in fire. Later
the torch went up outside the Bad Monkey. The play list pounding out all songs
to do with fire and burning, the crazies that run the bar, in war paint and
covered completely, let loose like maniacs, dancing like demons and throwing
fire at each other and the massive crowds of observers. According to the guys,
this year was tame, Hard to believe, unless you meet these devils, but the safe
spot for me was just inside the door, taking pics and vids to record the event,
laughing, dancing and diligently drinking water all night. A thick layer of
dust covered everything, and I still felt rubbish. With an early bus to catch,
I bid the good people goodnight, and went back to the Lily Pad Inn to shower
and sleep.
Little sleep I had, vomiting every 20mins until dawn. The Swiss guy came
back reeking of alcohol, talking loud nonsense and acting an imbecile, so the
madness of fire infected the atmosphere of Dali peace, and my poisoned self is feeling horrrrrible.
With little sleep, a grumbling bowl and a stomach in my throat, I faced a 6
hour bus ride. Have you ever thought to yourself for 6 hours solid ‘please
don’t be sick, please don’t be sick’, torture, Here I am in Kunming, still
rotten but excited for big hugs with Dad in two days! I’m well sick of strangers
and need some love. I think this is the second time in my life I have experienced food poisoning, not fun at all :(