life's adventures

Photos: Sweet sweet Samui

hanadignan — Fri, 28 Sep 2012 16:37:00 GMT

Can I stay here just a little while longer??

hanadignan — Fri, 28 Sep 2012 16:16:00 GMT

Samui has a place in my heart, for the wonderful people and place and music I have found here. Last night was dream like, and the moments of delight and bliss make me tempted to drop all and stay on, as many have done before.

In the last few weeks I have accomplished lots of uni work, which is difficult to concentrate on, but almost at the finish line now so can't give up just yet. We have also spent days and evenings seeing beautiful parts of this island paradise. We spent a stunning day in AngThong Marine park, lovely kayaking and beach bathing, or cooking in my case. The turquoise green waters sparkling with blazing blue skies stretching forever above us. Fish and dolphins and freedom, lovely.

We relaxed an afternoon in Jungle club gazing out at the view, many evenings at Lamai night market for dinner, Cabana on Chawang beach one eve, Freedom bar watching Rasta monkey band for Fisherman village market another night, enjoying Thai food and friends all the while. Last night was the highlight for me though. Rock Bar put on a party for Job2Do and Tai Sawan, with Rasta Monkey opening the show.

Jumbled amongst massive rocks near the famous Grandmother and Grandfather rocks, a tiny beach and seating platforms and stage constructed of drift wood, the bar housed the bands of legendary talent. An eclectic mix of dub, reggae, gypsy, Thai and jazzy funky music by Thai band Tai Sawan (Under Paradise), my new pocket band. I wish I could carry the whole ten piece group around with me for eternal enjoyment! Job played some classics with them so it was an epic collaboration of absolute finesse that rendered me mesmerized and in love.

Leaving tomorrow for Bangkok, my soul is saddened but excited for the next steps on my journey. Secretly the anticipation I feel for the climax of this adventure (arriving in Aotearoa) is equally portioned with nervousness for the impending necessity of finding work and housing upon my return. Luckily I have a week of fun with friends in Melbourne before the reality of needing income sets in.

I still maintain I have the ultimate experiences in Thailand, unexpectedly incredible every time. I say very casually to friends, I will see you again in 2 years, but this is just too long I think. What my future holds frightens me a little, where will I end up? Buddha, Jah, Goddess only knows.

Island life

hanadignan — Sat, 15 Sep 2012 17:25:00 GMT

Back on Koh Samui in the Gulf of Thailand. The weather is perfect with light rain every now and then, so the heat of the season is cooled nicely. Sunshine in the morning and a comfortable room to get work done, an amazing friend to spend the evenings with, Island life is good.

On arrival, the plane swoops into landing just above the restaurants and resorts nearby. A open air bus slash tuktuk greets the tourists who fill up every seat of every plane. Apparently it is Italian season as applause erupted as the plane touched down. I impatiently waited for baggage before almost running to the meeting area for big hugs with Rachel, who has grown a lot since I last saw her. She is due in December.

We drove, in her heap of a car, to the place she had booked for me in ChoengMon, but the owner said he is renovating, so must stay in another place further from the beach, but closer to Rachels house. It is nice and comfortable, but will move to the hotel soon to get some beach time in, and working hard in isolation on assignments (as hard as can be expected while on a tropical island).

In the evenings we go out to dinner, to markets to watch her friend;s reggae band play, or just hang out at the house. It is so relaxed and this style of life is quite infectious. Why get up before lunch time if you don't have to go to work? Why worry if the bike breaks down, it keeps life interesting. Why worry if it rains, the tanks will fill up and it will be cooler. Why worry if you have no money or job, there's always something you can do. Mai bin lai is the catch phrase of the week: no worries.

Last night Sun, Rachel's partner, and his friends cooked for us, we set the floor (as the commonly eat sitting on the floor)and enjoyed super spicy curry and rice and fried fish, very authentic haha, I held tears back and smiled, my tolerance for spice is devastatingly low. Always fun to experience local culture though, and have been talking loads with Rachel about the coming baby and her situation. If anyone can roll with the coaster it is Rachel, or Chel as her Thai friends call her.

I find the second time round I am taking less photos, and focusing on my uni work more each day. I have decided to treat Rachel to a tour of the Ang Thong National Marine park when I get my work done, so head down and reading boring language teaching books. I wonder how, or if, this qualification will help me in the future. Who knows, but I am glad to be doing it anyway.

Chiang here and there

hanadignan — Sun, 9 Sep 2012 13:03:00 GMT

I flew north to Chiang Rai, my favourite spot two years ago. It is still peaceful and lovely, but growing a bit. Unfrtunately I didn’t get to spend much time with any of the people that became our Chiang Rai family last time round. I still had drinks at the bar ‘Peace House’ every evening, with the friendly Sanpet for company.

I managed to get a bit of writing about politically correct language in teaching down, so only a few more hours of focus needed for that assignment. As all travellers find at some point (especially when on your own), talking to strangers you usually explain your origins and questions are exchanged about purpose or location or time of your adventures. I am getting tired of explaining I am not really on holiday and I just wanted to re visit friends blablabla..then I go and recloosively open my laptop to do some reading or research for the presentation or essay I have to do soon.

It rained a bit on and off in Chiang Rai, I was lucky to see a few of the crew there, but resolved to return again…I wonder if I can manage it? I ate at the night market each eve, much more solitary than last time round, where was everyone hiding? Low season I guess. I did get a job offer though, so who knows where I might end up in a year or so?

So this morning I bussed to Chiang Mai, only 3 hours on a VIP bus, super comfortable and of course CM is easy as to figure out. Sunday is night market so walked around the foody bit and got a feast of various asian foods, then sat on damp seating and munched away. I flittered around the streets with yawns escaping. I think I will have an early night because I’m sad my friend Yung isn’t here. He was yesterday, but our paths corssed on the road between here and there. Funny how things like that happen, I talked to him and said I will see him in 2 more years.

Welcome back to Thailand

hanadignan — Wed, 5 Sep 2012 10:48:00 GMT

Leaving the comfort of the tour in a private car to the airport, I take off in the evening for Bangkok. It was only a short flight over the border so I was soon on my way to the hostel in the tourist center, near Khao San road. It was Saturday night and chaos reins in that neck of the city. I stayed at Nap Park hostel, so shivvered in aircon blasted but lovely and comfortable room within an hour of arriving.

The next morning, I wandered the streets that have been swept but still reek of beer and smoke,in search of replacement fake sunnies. I cleaned up all my things and jumped in a cab to the real city center, where I stayed with a friend I met in Dali, Rob. He cooked his lovely girlfriend Helen and I some 5 star quality breakfast, and I made Vietnamese coffee. Excellent start to the day.

Then I was taken to the Brittish Club where beer and football command. The company was delightfully hilarious, and tropical rainfall cut short the tournament but we managed to drink plenty and laugh our way home to get ready for dinner, more beer and footbal on telly at Helens house. Again the people were super friendly brits, excellent food with snatches of conversation in between tense eyes on the game, I was snoozing on the couch before midnight.

The next day I wandered for a while, then back to the house to discover a friend of Robs who I also met in Dali was there. Names forgotten, didn't stop us from having a good old catchup. I went for a lovely swim in the complex pool (hehe) then we went out on a mission for Tricky to buy some 'tut' from a huge market across town. On the metro and through malls, we are engulfed in teeshirts and clothes and souvenirs, endless stalls of stuff. Tricky was on a mission.

Hours later we returned home defeated by traffic and tut - the very English word for stuff. Market dinner and to crazy Khao san for drinks with more brits known to Tricky and Rob. Talking loads and overwhelmed by the environment, it was a very late one. The next morning I went in search of the Starbucks Pie I heard tales of. First pie since May last year in NZ, yum!

In the eve I caught a flight to Chiang Rai in the north, a place I fell for years ago, and on my return, even lacking the familiar faces, I find my photo on the wall and friendly people to chat away the night with. Today I am on a mission to get study done so I can enjoy my evening again in this peaceful place.

So long Sunnies in Saigon

hanadignan — Sat, 1 Sep 2012 15:05:00 GMT

Saigon, the big city center of Ho Chi Minh, has stolen my beloved fake sunnies. Otherwise the last week or so has been interesting. I have embraced the lazy side of luxury travel. The comfy bed and buffet breakfast has taken me in. I do look forward to a bit more hands on travel before home time, so todays flight to Bangkok is the beginning of another form of adventure. Even though I face assignments in the following weeks.

To sum up my activities in the last few days, apart from eating out and enjoying bargaining for coffee, not much has happened. We spent a day or so in the Mekong Delta area, but tired of touring made everything a little less glamorous than it otherwise might have been.

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Might as well Resort to Hoi An

hanadignan — Fri, 24 Aug 2012 12:06:00 GMT

Loving the resort life, it is absolutely ruining me to the backpacker and hostel style of travel! The pool is miles long and the beach is lush, the very end of what was known as China Beach. Beautiful weather and an awesome old town nearby with a multitude of shops and things for filling out dad’s suitcases!

Soon after our arrival we ate in the restaurant, which was succeeded by a swim in the sea, a first since Italy for me, so I was well happy. The guide came back and took us into the old town that evening, and we wandered around spending money here and there. Dad found a great tailor where he ordered a dozen shirts to be made, while I bargained for goods, getting a dress for four dollars and teeny tiny pants for Alia at 2dollars each.

As we enjoyed a delicious meal on a balcony looking over the river, we were forced to listen to loud annoying music from a tent where a festival celebrating Vietnam and Japans relations was going on across the river. We also had a great view of lightning storm in the distance, but didn’t linger, instead kept wandering until after 8 when we caught a shuttle back to the resort.

The following day we were collected in the morning to wander the old town a bit more, visiting the oldest house and a silk embroidery handicraft shop. Back to the resort, I was eager to try out something adventurous, and decided on parasailing. With no instruction and unanswered queries I was lifted into the air, strapped in and dangling uncomfortably from the harness for fifteen minutes. They drove up and down the coast with me loosing feeling in my legs and yelling at the driver. Seems funny now, it wasn’t at the time.

To compensate for the traumatic failure of the parasailing incident I went to have a spa treatment, a scrub and massage for 100 minutes. Perfect. Feeling sleepy and relaxed, I returned to the room to be hassled by Dad, so ended up feeling angry and exhausted by the day’s emotions. We took a shuttle to town to eat at a famous restaurant ‘Streets’ that takes street kids and trains them in hospitality and silver service. The food was very good.

Rain prevented us spending a few more hours spending more money in the shops of the old town, so we grabbed a cab back to the resort to get an early night. It was restless for me, and this morning my neck and back is aching. We have a day of transit to get through. I have taken my Herbal Becalm pills, so fingers crossed I survive the day. We will end up in Saigon, with a few days of touristy activities ahead.

Hue more south than before

hanadignan — Tue, 21 Aug 2012 20:08:00 GMT

After our final night in Hanoi, we went to the airport to fly to Hue. There we were met by a bubbly guide and silent driver, who took us to eat a quick ham and formaggio baguette, before trudging around the site of the old imperial city in the hellish heat. We then relaxed in the regal hotel, the Morin, built in 1901, very beautiful and French colonial. The room was vast and comfortable, with a cool garden restaurant and pool to relax by.

Hue lifestyle seems a lot more chilled out, with less people and bigger streets than the chaotic mazes of lanes in the old quarter of Hanoi. We wandered the night market full of Chinese plastic crap, and ate at a recommended restaurant before an early night. Being woken before 7am takes its toll on me, and traveling with Dad, who usually rises around 4am, is definitely challenging.

A bright blue morning took us to Perfume River for a loud boat trip to a pagoda, where photos were taken before sweatily getting into the air-conditioned car and driven to a tomb site. The mausoleum was quite like many temple grounds you see in Asia. As was the next one we visited. I enjoyed the beauty of lotus ponds, and spotting butterflies and geckos around the place. My favourite part of tripping around each of these touristy places is admiring the glazed pottery used in roof tiles, and the mosaic in and around each place depicting pictures of dragons and Chinese symbols of longevity.

After the exhaustingly hot stops here and there we opted to go back to the hotel to relax a bit. Instead we ended up having a quick swim in the pool and hopping out to take a bike-tuk ride to the big Dong Ba Markets across the bridge. Here, we were hounded by the shop-owners, to the point of complete frazzeldness! I got ripped off! My calculations between Vietnamese Dong to USD to NZD was way off and we spent quite a bit on presents for family and bits and pieces of general stuff. No worries, we headed back to the hotel to find a Trip Advisor recommendation for dinner.

Off down the street, not far from our hotel but down a few small alleys, we hit on Nina’s café, number 3 on TA. A family run restaurant, with smiley people serving the food and drinks, in a shack-like outdoor setting of red plastic chairs and things hanging everywhere, we ate a delicious meal mostly recommended to us by the waitress. Music was old school and we enjoyed the atmosphere and dinner so much, we dragged ourselves back to the hotel for another early eve.

Hanoi Hurricane

hanadignan — Mon, 20 Aug 2012 11:09:00 GMT

Leaving the Republic of China was stressful, but what did I expect? The plane’s wheels lifting off the ground was a moment I won’t forget soon, I was almost giddy! Coming back to Vietnam, I was anticipating the caffeine hit and big hugs from Dad. Customs was slow but soon enough I was lying back in a plush 4WD on my way into Hanoi. It was a swift ride and thanks to the freezing aircon I was shivering, but it was nice compared to the sweaty heat that sizzles outside.

On arrival at the hotel, I discovered it was the wrong hotel, and I jumped in a cab to get to the magnificent Melia hotel, locally known as ‘big hotel’. Up to catch up with Dad for an hour before unanimously we turned out the lights. Luckily the next day we had nothing to do, so we wandered around the old quarter for an hour or so, sweating and dodging motorcycles and scooters. That night we ate at a very fancy restaurant, all really very good, but a little sticky, sitting outside with small fans not quite moving the stiff air.

Day two and we rose early to another buffet breakfast lacking the delicious coffee I hunger for. We headed out in the 4WD with driver and guide to see the sights around Hanoi. Minutes after exiting the car to stare at Ho Chi minh’s tomb and the rather boring area around there, tropical rain drops in, with the feel of an advancing storm, possibly even the typhoon that has been playing around the gulf.

Wet but content after eating lunch at another terrifically lush restaurant, we return to the hotel to relax. Too many mundane tourist attractions make me yawn. Once again on our way to one of the touristic treasures of Hanoi, the drive down the road turned into a flashback from Splash Mountain. As we watched, branches blew by, rain poured down in droves, trees snapped like matchsticks by wind tearing up the city. Meanwhile people were still on the streets and motorbikes still zoomed along, raincoats pasted themselves to the heads of the blind drivers. We slowly dodged debris on our way to see the water puppet attraction of traditional Viet ethnic entertainment.

It was a bit unsettling but interesting how the puppeteers stand in water and propel their wooden puppets around with long sticks from behind a curtain. The music is typical Vietnamese, so slightly painful. The weather was calm on the way home, and we wandered along the road to take in the destruction caused by fallen trees on our way to get a bite for dins.

Our trip to Halong bay was cancelled thanks to typhoon Kai Tak, so we drove to the coast in the afternoon, hoping for the weather to improve for a trip on the water the next day. Our evening was rather boring in the hotel, but we had a really nice spread for dinner. In the morning we were able to get onto our massive and private boat to cruise around the murky waters of Halong Bay’s famous karst peak island attractions.

Many photos were taken, and a delightful lunch eaten on board, before we jumped back into the 4WD to drive back to Hanoi. We have a flight to catch to Hue, where more adventures will be had I’m sure, at 11am. What were the highlights of Hanoi? At dinner this eve at a Mexican fusion place, Dad and I laughed about our fun, squished in a seat pushed by a poor guy on a bike behind us. A very hilariously uncomfortable experience, glad we had a ride but not keen to do it again.

For me, traveling is so much about food, so I have really enjoyed not paying for the great food we have had so far (hehe) thanks Dad! The excitement of the typhoons damage was sobering, but on another note, the cocktail I had with dinner 'Hanoi Hurricane' was aptly named and had quite the tang, as does Hanoi.

Fire and Poison

hanadignan — Mon, 13 Aug 2012 20:51:00 GMT

I arrived back in Dali, and bartered for a cheap taxi to the old town, Dali gu cheng. Booked in to a new hostel, very cozy and calm, with very friendly staff, which is great! I shared a two-bed dorm with a Swiss fellow, who almost caught me undressed on our first encounter! I still had lots to iron out on my assignment so the sunny days of last week were mostly spent indoors writing and referencing. Fun. It was nice to chat with people at the Bad Monkey again, yet I have a very strange attitude these days when it comes to meeting people. Somewhere like Dali, I don’t like being a traveler. I enjoy the place more when surrounded by friends. This last visit was a rollercoaster of crazy so I’m not surprised at my bipolar-like emotions lately.

Basically on Saturday, I had finished a second draft of my assignment that I am reasonably happy with. It was time for a night of drinking. I hadn’t had a real good night, letting go, since leaving Dalian, so Saturday eve at the Bad Monkey was my mission. The pouring was light so I powered through my first 8 Jameson, but like a clever drunk I only take out so much cash, and I distinctly remember thinking, I am quite happy, with enough cash for one more drink. Then the night got out of control. I was making friends with two cool guys from England who are visiting the owners of the bar, Carl and Scott, both great guys themselves. Then some Chinese man who was chugging back beer, in the typical ‘gambei’ style of China, started getting me my own glass to gambei with, but I don’t drink beer, so three or four glasses later… Also I recognized Elliot, an old acquaintance from two years ago. We talked and he bought me more drinks. I remember falling over in the middle of the street as others motored off to bed, Christina collected me, informed me of my inebriation, and gave me a glass of water. Angel. Then I was escorted to my hostel, unhappily anticipating the hurt that will come.

Sunday I woke at 8am, drunk. Food, then sleep more. Same again in the afternoon, but I stupidly searched for a greasy hamburger, and found the most miserable excuse for food in Café de Jack. (Now blacklisted!!!) I had two bites of the burger and left it on the table in disgust. As evening approached the town was astir. The Fire Festival of Dali began. I grabbed a coffee at the Monkey, and then back to the hostel to relax and shower, before the night begins. Carl told me a week ago about the absurd nature of this festival. A long time ago, two men from two rival villages in the vicinity of Dali, the Yi and the Bai, had a disagreement over a woman...more or less. One village’s elders took their guy back to his house and told him to settle, and resolve the issue, as the other villagers were a bit loose. Meanwhile, determined to have their way, the other village had set out to burn the house of the guy who had started the mess. All the village elders were burned alive too. And so goes the history of the most mental celebration of fire I, and all others, will ever take part in.

I headed back to the Monkey for their Sunday Roast, which was awesome. Then, not knowing what to expect or prepare for, I wandered around the streets where fire filled fun had begun. The police were stopping the torches going down Renmin Rd, where the Bad monkey was biding its time. So at the intersections at either end, chaos was conquering. Big totem torches decorated and in flames stood outside most establishments. Torches blazing held in the hands of many, young and old, were flying about. Bags of pine resin were littered around, hanging from belt straps of boys, handfuls being thrust toward the fire to create a giant explosive balls of flame. Families grabbed and counted and threw, in my spot taking pictures I was engulfed, repeatedly, in fire. Later the torch went up outside the Bad Monkey. The play list pounding out all songs to do with fire and burning, the crazies that run the bar, in war paint and covered completely, let loose like maniacs, dancing like demons and throwing fire at each other and the massive crowds of observers. According to the guys, this year was tame, Hard to believe, unless you meet these devils, but the safe spot for me was just inside the door, taking pics and vids to record the event, laughing, dancing and diligently drinking water all night. A thick layer of dust covered everything, and I still felt rubbish. With an early bus to catch, I bid the good people goodnight, and went back to the Lily Pad Inn to shower and sleep.

Little sleep I had, vomiting every 20mins until dawn. The Swiss guy came back reeking of alcohol, talking loud nonsense and acting an imbecile, so the madness of fire infected the atmosphere of Dali peace, and my poisoned self is feeling horrrrrible. With little sleep, a grumbling bowl and a stomach in my throat, I faced a 6 hour bus ride. Have you ever thought to yourself for 6 hours solid ‘please don’t be sick, please don’t be sick’, torture, Here I am in Kunming, still rotten but excited for big hugs with Dad in two days! I’m well sick of strangers and need some love. I think this is the second time in my life I have experienced food poisoning, not fun at all :(

Turning Tibetan

hanadignan — Wed, 8 Aug 2012 20:50:00 GMT

I can understand why people love the Tibetan culture, people are friendly and smiling, the food is amazing, the countryside is beautiful, and their clothes are hilarious! Final day in Shangri-La was spent on my assignment, but in the afternoon, with the two characters that had made my stay full of laughter. We started off with a drink, and as it was the last time I would egg them on to dress up in traditional Tibetan gear and sit on the yak down in the main square, we had a few drinks, and ended up actually doing it! My gown had the longest sleeves you could imagine. People were taking photos of and with us. General hilarity ensued, especially when they had turns sitting on the yak and posing for hundreds of happy snaps from bystanders.

After this we found an Indian restaurant to eat at, horrible wine, unexpected dishes and more laughter at Matt splashing spinach curry all over himself, we decide to indulge in one last glass of plum wine before bed. On our way through the town we passed through the smaller dancing square, where for the first time we see why it has this name. There were so many people, in a big circle, moving around in time to some oriental music. Of course we joined in! The guys didn’t quite follow the steps accurately, but again, lots of laughter.

Some videos and blurry pictures, then it was decided we needed to calm ourselves with a hot, toxic, plum wine. This drink has a wrinkled plum at the bottom of a wineglass, its heated, and smells exactly like nail polish. Tastes great though, its only about 40% so we very maturely decided to stick to one glass before goodbyes. The next morning I rose early to get myself to the bus station. Bought a ticket back to Dali and hey presto I’m on my way once again, taking pics of the epic farmhouses through the Tibetan influenced countryside, wondering if I will ever see it again.

Shangri-LALALALAAAA

hanadignan — Mon, 6 Aug 2012 18:25:00 GMT

On and off..stop and start.. the rain and thunder, clouds and chilliness come and go, in and out.. its quite nice though, makes appreciating the moments of blazing sun even better! This old town is a typical cobbled maze, where no travel office has a map, and there’s so much to see around you, slipping and tripping is common on the uneven ground.

I arrived after an 8 hour painful bus ride yesterday..one side of me is bruised from the massive guy slumping into me the whole way, we were packed in pretty tight and the road is anything but smooth sailing. On arrival, two Barcelonians and myself couldn’t find our hostel, and when we finally did, our bookings were void due to lack of power for the last two days. Nightmare! So dragging my bag down the uneven lanes following a friendly English guys direction, I grabbed a room at a quirky little place, with stairs that are like horizontal ladders and an old dirty bathroom down corridors only 30cms wide and up and down more ladder-like stairs.

Everything here is wooden, beautifully carved and ornate style, massive structured buildings jumbled together to make an old Chinese/Tibetan influenced town. I will explore more, write more, show more when pictures are uploaded. Until then, I deem this place worth your time but also put the money in and fly…the bus is a terrible way to start off your stay!

As I think this may be the closest I will get to Tibet for a while, I am drinking in the beauty and loving my time here. Although the power cuts if the rain is heavy, so that is maybe once a day. The mornings are almost clear with deep blue skies and fluffy white clouds, not too long and the black thunderclouds roll on across the heavens. I have spent half my time writing my assignment, and the other, better, half loving every moment of food and bargaining for wares. The Tibetan culture is uber friendly and smiley, and colourful and creative. Everything here is Yak this and Yak that: horn combs, bowls and bells, meatmeatmeat and hair and wool products galore. The intricate embroidery is my favourite, I frequently fall in love with the water-like silk scarves unil I am told they are hundreds of dollars.

This evenings dinner was so high up on the scale of deliciousness, I just have to write about it immediately. The restaurant is Arro Khampa, Tibetan Bistro. A table of three, we asked the French host to recommend dishes, and each was just magnificent. A foil steamed yak dish, a little spicey and melt in your mouth, it was gone in moments. A western style salad with excellent dressing and yak cheese, which is quite like parmesan, perfection. The tibetan viggie balls, a little curry-ish flavor, very typical indo-chinese, I stuffed my face full. And the main dish (wish I got a photo) the impressive copper Tibetan hot-pot. Packed full of meat and veg, boiling water stewing the raw food until a soupey flavor permeates.

Minutes after leaving I put in my ten cents at tripadvisor.com giving this place 100% and guaranteeing I will come back perhaps tomorrow night! Not only that but I am spoiled for Yunnan coffee here, and breakfast options are many in the touristy laneways full of bars cafes and shops. Lunch is always a satisfying street bbq, where I grab skewers of meat and veg and a woman fans away at the coals and brushes oil and sprinkles of seasoning and spices until the ultimate result is rapidly disappearing through my gob. All I can eat for maybe 4nzd. Bliss!

Dali whine and dine

hanadignan — Sat, 4 Aug 2012 18:21:00 GMT

All is changed. The hostel didn’t have my booking so I had to wait over 6 hours for my bed. Not happy. Memories of Jo and Brian’s success here began floating away like it was all a dream. The management barely speaks English. All the guests are incredibly rude and unfriendly Chinese people. The menu of great food is gone. No more Wednesday or Saturday BBQs, or casual days sitting around talking to travelers. Instead I find it very simple to sit down and write my assignment. Bonus you might say, if the Internet connection would work.

Constantly a battle with something, paying extra for a nice room full of rude people with skill saws going outside the window nonstop. Every evening terrible music played, by the unfriendly Chinese groups of young adults that hang around, and blasts through the walls and makes my head split. I look forward to leaving on Sunday, and erasing my memory of this stay. Although the Bad Monkey is still here and full of dreadlocked wanderers, and the markets and trinket filled shops are still jam packed full of very cool wares from ancient artifacts to embroidery and jewelery, colourful ethnic clothes and hand-worked leather, horn and bone thingees.

I am happy the weather has held out, and I’m happy one of my assignments is behind me. There is light shining from the cracks in the clouds, the sounds of birds and insects are hiding under the droning construction work. I will pass through again for the fire festival next weekend. I will always find perspective in life: the downs augmented by the ups, generally good food and some company changes everything, and not too long now I will be wondering what's next in my path?

Zai Lin Yunnan

hanadignan — Thu, 2 Aug 2012 18:17:00 GMT

Cloudy with drizzle, Kunming is full of roads blocked with construction and puddles of rank water. The Hump hostel, which I have previously stayed in, hasn’t changed much at all. I got my bed in a dorm and wander to a nearby restaurant to see if they still have my favourite dish of spicy fried tofu and bacon bits, but alas, they didn’t. I ordered some garlic beans, tofu and rice and head to the terrace of the hostel to eat. There are many travelers, but I was not quite in the cheerful mood of socializing with strangers, so downstairs I went in search of whiskey to calm my nerves.

The Hump bar has changed lots, it is less inviting and more damaged looking than ever. The bartender knows the friends I inquired after, but they too have moved on or are out of town, so I sat at the bar to drink. Soon enough a young group of students from Boston crowd around the bar buying huge numbers of crazy shots, I was invited to have a Scooby snack, and then an alien brain, both sweet and dangerous. I stuck with my whiskey and inwardly reminisced at my memories of being 20. Talking with strangers at the bar was great; I met a cool guy from Vegas, and his Kiwi friend, both living in Kunming indefinitely. We drank, and then went to get street food, one of the best things about Yunnan. Around 2am I went to bed, I have a big day of organising the next few weeks ahead of me.

Today I woke and went straight to the Vietnam consulate to apply for a tourist Visa. Easy as pie. Done. Back to the hump to shower pack and check out, with the intention of taking a late bus to Dali, to the ancient Chinese town that captured my heart two years ago. Filling in time I walked half an hour to the big lake park, which was surrounded by construction walls, so moved on to my favourite restaurant, which was closed today. Stopped for an ice coffee in a French café then walked some more along the edge of the deserted construction around the big lake park, feet started to throb, I headed back to the hostel to peruse the markets downstairs. I still have hours to wait without internet, but at least the hostel and bus is booked for Dali, my visa waiting for me at 5pm, I can breathe for a bit. Not all is lost.

Photos: Asia 2012

hanadignan — Tue, 31 Jul 2012 20:40:00 GMT

As I head southward this is what I see

Learn to expect extortion

hanadignan — Tue, 31 Jul 2012 18:03:00 GMT

The epic saga that is my experiences trying to cooperate with the evil empire of China has made me snap. The last straw was chewed long ago dealing with the notoriously anal Dalian Public Security Bastards with Visa mishaps. Me trying to follow rules got into some big kafuffle over following instructions too literally. No help from NZ embassy because it would just aggravate the officials who are waiting for a bribe. And today, after telling three people working for China Eastern Airlines my flight number, was told to wait in line. Finally getting to the counter I was told the check-in closed three minutes earlier. Bad luck some might say, I would say you have thick skin. Mine is stretched to transparency. Some might roll your eyes in mock sympathy and mutter ‘She should know by now how unfair Chinese bureaucratic agencies can be’, to you I say you’re right but it is still infuriating and I like to vent! All I wanted at the time was an apology, a letter explaining the situation so my insurance can cover the extortionate cost of my last minute flight, and a tissue to mop the tears. Did I get any of that? Not a chance.

So I suffer in humiliation wondering really hard what on earth drew me to this unjust country. In moments like these, I feel rage and torment filling my soul, the absoluteness of this culture’s unhelpful attitude, unsympathetic and unforgiving nature, I feel like a homicidal teenager ready to explode at the unwarranted difficulties I encounter. Talk about emotional breakdown! Deep breaths (come on Hana), how often has crap hit the fan in China, no wonder the air reeks of decay throughout the country and continent.

The Visa issue many know already. Basically, I recommend never travelling to Dalian. When you get a new passport do NOT damage the old one until all Visas are expired, even if you are told to cut the corner, don’t do it. When in a bind in China, find someone with connections: GuanXi, to grease the hands of the more powerful. Bribes are all they understand in difficult situations. Quote from the greased official after a week of freaking out, ‘I can see this is not intentional damage of the Visa so we will ignore this and give you another new tourist Visa a month before you leave.’ That cost about 400nzd.

So here I sit, battery waning fast, no there are NO plugs in the Shanghai airport, and like I would risk missing my flight to sit more than 2 meters away from the boarding gate! So I nurse a ten-dollar pottle of haagen-dazs to sooth the soul crushing anger I am drenched in while I wait for my second flight to Kunming today.

Onwards I go

hanadignan — Mon, 30 Jul 2012 11:47:00 GMT

It is that time again, my feet are aching to be on the move, and here i go. First stop Shanghai, of course after coming here so many times I love this city, it is the least Chinese place and it will always be a favorite stop where I will be guaranteed to see old friends, meet new friends, do unexpected things and generally have a mindBLASTING time! My final days in Dalian were special due to the time spent with Tibo, Meghan Jenia and Ania, food was good, eating was nice!

Shanghai is still a great place, I enjoy myself so much it is always a bit sad to leave. Again I got to catchup with Stephan, the bursting full of like Canadian that really knows how to laugh. We met for free hotdogs at a cool courtyard bar, and went to chill at his place for the eve.

The next day I wandered around, avoiding my uni work and spent a while out of the blazing heat on skype to the family. I bought cute silk outfits for nieces and nephews and met up with Kara, a friend I made in Hanoi years earlier, who has just moved to Shanghai. Multiple iced coffees sitting in Tianzifang vintage market streets later, we headed off to meet Charlie, the friendliest guy ever!

A great eve spent drinking 2 for one cocktails sitting on the rooftop terrace of a fancy place with friends a plenty, again we ended up hanging out a Charlies place, I say again because last time I was in Shnghai I went there for dins the night before flying, and of course wished I couldve stayed and really gotten to know more of his friends and had a slice of shanghai life for myself.

So once more I head off to catch the metro to Pudong, not knowing when or if I will return...

Final daze in Dalian

hanadignan — Sat, 28 Jul 2012 18:09:00 GMT

Amongst all the frustration and difficulty I have faced throughout the year in China, I have made some otleechna friends! Surviving winter with copious amounts of whiskey, and getting through each crappy day at work by having fun with the little brats, eating out with friends, these are the things I will remember about the last year. My last week was spent hoping my passport would be returned to me, feeling so nervous and dejected after a really rude ending at my work. I tried to organise some food based mini events which friends could come to. Staying at Tibos place in Xinghai square, Meghan present for the majority as she was on holiday still, we prepared Boeuf Bourguignon on Tuesday night. Under careful supervision, and taking notes, the most delicious rich and red wine soaked pot of stew was produced. The dish is best done overnight, so it was reheated and added to the next night when a few friends came around for a potluck. Plenty of wine, vegetarian curry, Russian salad and steamed pork accompanied my creation, with cheesecake, fruit salad and brownies to top it off. Everyone was full of laughter and food so we played some silly games until the early hours.

Thursday I went to dinner with more of the same good friends at an all you can eat Japanese restaurant. There are a few in Dalian, and for around 40nzd it is open menu until about 10. Fancy as, we filled up on all the deliciousness and sake imaginable, and tottered off to Pandora for a last few drinks with Leon, the owner, and others who had come out for a goodbye beverage. Aaron and a few others were dominating the mic and playing some pretty rocking songs, and of course I wont forget the innumerable eves wasted away dancing and full of whiskey with so many good fellow expats cramped into the small dingy bar that is Transformers slash Pandora.

My final eve was spent at a very fancy buffet dinner for ICD, a Dalian club for business people. I drank lots of wine and afterwards at another bar, Hertz, where Aarons band played and we danced, I even got slightly emotional saying goodbye to some pretty awesome guys. The night was out of control when we went to a club called Suzy Wong’s. I have never been a fan, the music will melt your ears off, and there are an abundance of beautiful Russian girls flirting non-stop with all the sleazy Brazilian guys. Funny but a bit depressing I think.

I was lucky to hang with my closest friends for the Saturday, watching movies and chatting tiredly about dumb things till it was time to find a cab to the airport. Of course it was a long wait. I began a list of waiting times, which I know will grow very large, as I waited another hour and a half for my plane.

Give me Guanxi!

hanadignan — Thu, 7 Jun 2012 17:22:00 GMT

On Sunday I received my brand spanking new passport, so pretty and clean and new. It came with instructions as to transferring my current Chinese working Visa, and also a sticker to put on my old passport. I did this, and lopped off the corner in the process, as the picture showed me to do, to show clearly that the passport is old. Stupid policy, needs to be more specific. This action caused me a lot of grief and a few mentally stressful days. So My first trip to the PSB to tranfer the Visa was on Monday, the officials laughed at me for cutting my passport, then they showed me a teeny sliver of the visa had also been chopped. This was where my gut started to plummet and the flights I had bought merely hours earlier were in jeopardy, along with my contract with the school and all my carefully dreamed of near-future plans. Buckets of silent sobby tears, breaking heart for the feeling of uselessness, and anger toward bureaucracy in China. I was informed of (my stupidity) the cancellation of my visa through accidental damage and was distraught. Luckily I had friends to provide hugs and support, and wonderful parents who sympathised, dad even consulted his contacts in NZ! Matters didn't improve though, as one colleague informed me they couldn't fix the situation on Tuesday, in fact I had to stop working and getting paid if I didn't have a valid Visa. Thousands of dollars lost to this mistake, I started to fume. I called around friends, and friends of friends to see what I could do. Another visit to the PSB early Wednesday morning, a better translator and friend who explained what I needed to do to legally leave the country, and then a sad afternoon with my favourite class, big hugs with lots of tiny kids, it was more than slightly heart-wrenching. We set a time to meet at the local police office this morning, and after a horrible night tossing and turning, I made it bright and early with a winning attitude for the day. From 8.30am to 2pm we waited here, waited there, no progress or success in getting documents in order, more of the waiting, sudoku on the ipod and yawns aplenty. Finally we met the man at the PSB whom we should have called at the start. Lots of Chinese explanations roughly translated to: he can see it was a mistake and he will take care of it. I nearly fainted. Strange, as I was not expecting it, I had even begun to look forward to my new hastily made plans in case I had to skip the country in a hurry. Back on track now though! Roller coaster ride indeed. What to expect when working in China..Unless you have someone who owes someone who knows someone ...Guanxi... you're screwed.

Summer is Finally coming to Dalian

hanadignan — Wed, 2 May 2012 10:10:00 GMT

After an often unbearable winter, the blossoms are out, and warm winds invite seaside bbqs and evenings outside with good friends. The last four months have been whirlwind, counting down the time until my next movements, yet enjoying the way of life here, and the people I spend this time with.

Work is the same, easy and unchanging. The students love me and classes are generally fun and entertaining. It does frustrate me that after nearly a year and some of the other teachers and staff have never even tried to have a conversation with me. They are afraid of speaking English in an English school. This is China, they study the language at University for years, but very few ever want to actually use it.

University papers for me are a tremendous headache, in that my brain feels worked to the max. I wake up thinking of these syntactic brainteasers that I have for my current assignment, and the last two months was spent in agony of trying to figure out how to get phonetic script on my word doc. For a not so computer savvy person, but one with brain enough to figure anything out, I spent months with this issue driving me up the wall. After sending my final assignment in five different ways, I land an A-, not bad.

Social life and Dalian is awesome. I spend time with good friends out to dinner and lunch, and there's always blurry memories of open mic nights at Pandorra. Often meals turns into a weekly event and people join until giant tables of merry expats enjoy lush food. I am the co-founder of an Informal group of food enthusiasts 'the eating in Dalian club', where we developed a motto; 'food is good, eating is nice.' Last night we did the first 'beach' bbq of the summer, with about 30 people attending, it was super, and we even made a small bonfire when darkness settled. Soon after the blaze took hold we were chased away by the beach officials. Some favorite spots here in Dalian if you ever visit, make your way to Unome for huge salads YUM and Brooklyn for a hearty meal, the best thickshakes EVER and a well stocked bar, Calvin and Niko will help you out with whatever. We all love massive nights at Niko Japanese all you can eat for around 35nzd, that includes beer and sake, and it is TOP quality!

To finish off this well delayed entry in my log of travel stories, I will say the most recent highlight would be the trip to Shanghai. 5 days with Jenia, a Russian beauty. Twas her birthday so we planned lots, and went with the flow as plans changed due to surprises of other friends showing up. I managed to make new friends on a massive night out, and nights after that, See old friends who worked the cheek and stomach muscles laughing so much, And have a ball with current friends, making it just the perfect few days away from work and Dalian. We also ate a crazy amount of tasty food there!

And so with travel plans brewing on the horizon, and dates settled for my return to nz in October, my feet are twitchy and my brain is buzzing with anticipation. These last months will be grand, the following months will be another adventure. The homecoming will be the best prize of all!

snowflakes on roses and whiskery woolys

hanadignan — Sun, 1 Jan 2012 14:25:00 GMT

I wake early to see floaty flakes buzzing around in the wind outside. A few settle momentarily on the windowsill, lovely and sparkling in the early sunshine. The blazing blue sky soon take care of the soft snowy threats, and the chill is held at bay by the wonderful insulation of my apartment. Below zero sees me bundled up for the trip to work, and it takes extreme effort for me to bother going out regularly in the -10 temperatures of night time.

As the chill became serious here in Dalian, I still have a fishbowl of heat that I call home. My couch is bathed in warm sunlight until 4pm when it gets dark. I have been splurging on various clothing items and presents and foods over the Christmas period, and have since decided to make the leap to Thailand for a holiday in January, to make up for the New Years party I never had.

I will say the few here who made Christmas day amazing for me and even pulled out their drunken dance moves to entertain on New Years Eve have reminded me that the place is not so important if you have good friends with you. So here's to Alex, Kenny, Shino, Peter and Ryan, the hooligans of festivities in Dalian.

And when things get back to normal, work resumes and we seek social nights of fun together, as usual, Transformers will welcome us. Warmly underground in the derelict rooms filled with Russians and Americans, drinking away at Leon's well stocked bar, playing pool and jenga until the early hours when food is unanimously sought out and we have a 4am dinner party at some vague Chinese restaurant nearby. Life seems crazy and unfulfilled, but in reality when you don't even realise, the experience and what you make of it are far more precious than at first perceived.

festive feelings far from home

hanadignan — Tue, 8 Nov 2011 19:54:00 GMT

I can’t imagine it is ever very nice getting soaked wet trying to find your bed for the night. I have a sweet little room in a central hostel in shanghai, it would be perfect if it had access to wifi, as advertised. So I ponder all the things I wanted to do, wish I had written them down instead of saved in my email or on my itouch map. I hope tomorrow the weather is a bit more cheery, as I feel my spirit needs some sunshine. I think it’s my tendency to look at old videos or photos when I’m miserable that makes the situation worse. But chin up and ready for action, as that is what a weekend in Shanghai is really all about. Cripes I should stop putting this dreaded exam so far to the recesses of my thinking space! In reality it’s hours away and I am completely unprepared. Let’s hope my luck sees me through the day, the anniversary of my birth and of 25 years in this plentiful world.

On reflection of my stag Saturday night out on the town; Logo bar changed, location and popularity, empty, perhaps I was out too early, it was 10.30pm. Whiskey and move onto Shelter, a UK up and coming dj playing there, empty. People start arriving but not before I made my friends for the night, French, Brazilian and Taiwanese/Kiwi. Awesome. I was drunk and dancing lots, really appreciating the value of mind vibrating bass. Healing for my soul. I end up in a flash car driving who knows where at 3am for some Korean food. Back to the club for a last dance, emptier and no sign of the guys, perhaps our paths will cross again, I hope so they were super nice to the loner. Bed and sleep in.

Today I suffered, hung-over and miserable, wandered Nanjing road, famous shopping strip in china. Burger King healed me so then went to TaiKang road: old laneways of shops and restaurants. It was nice, packed but cool to see James again in Nuzi, and buy some bits and bobs. Caught up with Steph for an amazingly good Greek salad and olives and nz pinot. I met Steph in LiJiang a year ago so it was great to reestablish a connection. Will definitely be back here soon, too much fun times and friendlies to party with. I think I will always regret not living in Shanghai, as every time I come here, I leave saying I would love to live in the London New York of Asia!!

So now I’m 25. Today was pretty terrible, early rising and stressing about the exam. Getting to the venue was a trial, typical difficult to find building far away. I wrote around 500words for each of the 4 essays, all really averagely done, but no surprises there. The funny thing was that my one trusty nz pen and two cheap Chinese ones I brought that morning all ran out of ink or broke before the exam started, luckily some other guy lent me a decent pen. The whole three hours I was sniveling, I'm afraid that the contrast in temperature here has given me a cold. Today couldn’t get any worse really. I wandered the old touristy streets, disappointed in the drizzle and annoying crowds, then through the maze of shopping malls on my way back to the hostel. Feeling like my nose is constantly leaking I decide to spend a lonely evening in my room as opposed to going out to eat on my own. Save the fun for Thursday back in Dalian where my amazing friends will help me smother this cold in alcohol. Thankfully I got a few seconds online and saw loads of comments on my facebook page from friends and family, all around the world I am lucky to have met and known and loved so many wonderful people. How lucky am I? Recently a good friend of mine had a really bad night, and I heard myself saying how the best thing to drive away depressive thinking is to think of those loving friends you know you have in your heart. Kind of like when I was little and would have a nightmare and I will always remember mum telling me to imagine I was at the beach. Today in my heart I was at the beach. No loneliness will get me down because I'm lucky to know I'm loved and I have the best paradise waiting for me when I do return to beautiful Aotearoa.

its loud

hanadignan — Sun, 30 Oct 2011 19:48:00 GMT

The construction drone is insane, so here I sit with speakers turned right up, sweet sweet loud music soothing in comparison. After a day at work that makes me cringe in recollection, I feel its time to reflect on the last month or so here in my space.

Work carries on as usual and on a brighter note, halloween has coloured the days a little. A crazy party at Brooklyn bar on Friday with people unrecognizable saw me feeling a tad slow on Saturday at work. A few weekends ago I had a load of fun when a friend spun some kiwi beats at a bar, and the win in the rugby will always be a memorable night out.

The cold is settling in and I wish like anything to take a warm vacation home for a few months, sadly instead I am building my wardrobe to barricade the frost that will no doubt have me miserable. I am very happy the trip to Shanghai is moments away, and after the terrifying exam, I will revel in the prospect of no study for a while. That is unless I decide to get an idea of chinese language while Im here..hmm thinking this would be highly beneficial so who knows. The winter months will be interesting though.

the here and now is chilly, dreary and with quiz tonight halloween antics, drinks and live music down at cosy local, transformers/pandora bar afterwards as always, hangover study and work(5pm-7) tomorrow.. life isnt so bad :)

Photos: Dalian

hanadignan — Sun, 25 Sep 2011 19:58:00 GMT

These are some shots of my year..friends and bars and food

whats up these days

hanadignan — Sun, 25 Sep 2011 19:39:00 GMT

So in the last month, I have tripped to Zhengzhou, returned thankfully to Dalian, and have had my head down busy with work and uni work, trying to only go out three nights a week and doing well!

Seeing the friends I had in my last China trip was great, loved the feeling of welcome back, and the knowledge that I get to return to Dalian. The city itself here is very green, we have had loads of beautiful blue sky days and starry nights. Where I live is near the mountains, so it's spaced out with gardens and really nice to be away from the buzz in the center.

I still jump on the number 12 bus to get to Olympic Square where there is a huge cinema, underground mall and walmart, massive Parksons shop (where mainland cheese is sold in the supey downstairs)restaurants cafes bars and all that..Sunday is one favourite eve out I would say. At Brooklyn restaurant/bar owned by a friend from America ~excellent burgers, pizza, cookies and whiskey hehe.. A few friendly souls organise a quiz, its pretty fun, and a good mixed crowd, mostly foriegners and general goodcleanfun haha. So after its drinks at Pandora/Tranformers, and a peek at shooting stars when I finally get back to my apartment.

Uni work has been full on. Handed in a Research Report based on findings from an interview I did with two colleagues, asking about their experience learning English as a second language in China. I linked these with established theories of Second language acquisition processes common in China. That was Friday, work Saturday and Sunday *bamslam and the next one is due on the Wednesday, this a Case Study on a few aspects of my teaching language in China. Also arduous and nerve wracking!

Work itself has been mixed, had a few dumb days feeling like I am drowning in cultural difference, and others where students enjoy themselves and teachers are interacting and energetic too..doesn't help that I work with around 30 Chinese young women, and 2 young guys. hehe theres parts of the month where everyone is miserable!

So whats up, am going to Quiz tonight, next weekend is the start of National holiday here, so I have 10 days off, no plans and an Exam in Shanghai in about a month. So will ponder study and hopefully get round to it soon, in between work and fun of course.