Waiting at the airport is always
interesting. You can either feel filled with excitement – I’m going somewhere I
have been before, where it will be an reunion of friends or family, or you can
feel even more excitement for the unknown destination that awaits you, an
adventure where you can’t imagine the outcome.
For me here in the Kunming airport
– which is clean and spacious and generally rather modern, I feel the same
mixture of sadness that has plagued me for the last 2 days.
Leaving Kunming, wonderful,
amazing, beautiful Yunnan, I felt like I had a hole left inside of me. At the
airport I had a few winks before it was my turn to board the flight back to
Zhengzhou, the flight was full of nods, noodles and noise. Chinese people tend
to get very loud when speaking over the top of everyone else in their vicinity.
Luckily the flight was only a few hours, even though it seemed like an hour in
itself coming in to land.
I had, the previous day sent
messages and emails to all those great people I was looking forward to seeing,
in hopes of a couch or spare bed. The one I got offered was by Pablo, who
wasn’t at his apartment, it was dark and I was tired. After trying many
different buildings, calling and asking, I gave up in a haze of frustration and
teary, dramatic finality. Off to Red’s bar, where I could see Teresa whose
birthday it was that day.
I was plied with whiskey and most
importantly hugs. Getting to see those solid people, whom for some strange and
unknown reason have made Zhengzhou their home, was enough of a solvent to my
heavily exaggerated emotions after leaving Dali and returning to this polluted,
noisy, smelly city.
Beautiful, lovely Julia offered me
her couch, so off we went in the small hours of the morning to find it, while I
could still walk; carrying the pack was quite a mission. She has a gorgeous wee
apartment, which I immediately felt right at home in. That’s lucky because when
she popped off for work the next morning I was alone until she returned. The
door had jammed and in my fragile and extreme hung-over state I was left with a
bare fridge, a bottle of orange juice and some cereal.
She came to my rescue at the end of
a long days work, a neighbor unjamming the door, and I (and my stomach) rushed
her out the door again in the direction of the best –and only- Indian
restaurant in Zhengzhou.
Yesterday morning I straightaway
jumped off the couch and lunged for the door. It opened, thankfully. So I went
to meet Ana, an Argentinean friend, for a Japanese lunch. It was a challenge I
relish: speaking in Spanish for a day, and with a good friend at that. We
walked around in search of nothing, chatting and catching up in that unhurried
way that makes close friends spend hours in each other’s company with ceaseless
conversation flowing, even though I felt my language abilities to be inadequate
at times.
That evening was the goodbye party
for Nilson, a Brazilian friend who is leaving. I have excellent timing it
seems. Soon enough the Brazilians apartment was packed with the riotous foreign
contingent of Zhengzhou. Of course it was an epic night, drunkenness and
debauchery, and all the rest. I had great fun warning the newcomers of the
scoundrels amongst the laowai* present, and of course I had many of those
astonishing moments where I felt super incredibly glad I had made the trip back
and had the opportunity to solidify some excellent and special relationships
with all the most wonderful weirdoes living in what I do like to call an
absolute hell hole of a city.
Julia had disappeared. The key
didn’t work to her apartment door, I was devastated, and had to count out my yi
kuai* to taxi back into town at 4am and beg a bed from my old flat mate, the
luck I have. Poor Julia called around 7 to let me know she had come home, and
what do you know, after a loud and bumpy five minute bus ride to her apartment,
up the elevator and knock gingerly on the door, the key worked.
I have now just spent about an hour
brushing my hair ready for Paul and Yoko’s wedding in a few hours. BaiJiu*
anyone, ahh the pure entertainment of a Chinese slash American wedding, today
will be fun.
*LaoWai – common term for foreigner
*Yi kuai – one Yuan
*BaiJiu
– popular but noxious and dangerous Chinese rice wine, drunken in large amounts
at weddings (and any business negotiations, or lunch dates or any old excuse
really between hardened and crazy Chinese men).