Perhaps the best boat ride to do in Cambodia says my guidebook, a leisurely cruise through a protected bird sanctuary. I'm led to believe it should take 5 hours, the couple on the boat next to me think 9 and somebody else had heard 7. Hmmm. The reality is a boat that's not big enough for all the passengers, and i encamp on top of the boat with quite a few others. the first few hours are great, little fishing villages with their equivalent of a fishing trawler and huge storks and eagles flying around. the mood is gradually burnt away however by the relentless sun - there is not enough room for all of us to sit in the cabin can you believe and suncream, even factor 25 only does so much.
After 7 hours the boat is really struggling, there is simple not enough water in the river. we eventually all get out to find 4 pick-up trucks waiting for us. Hmmm. Guess what, there isn't enough room on the pick-up's for all our luggage and us and the several cycles we seem to have with us. We are squashed on however and it's not a comfy fit. it's also at least another hour on a very bumpy road to Battambang. We continually have to get off as the road is too difficult, we also have to dodge and use our backpacks to protect ourselves from branches. I'm supposed to look at it as an adventure, and I'm not denying it gave a sense of camaraderie between us all. It's a burnt, bruised, shirt ruined and scratched me who eventually arrives 11 hours after setting off. My first question to a passerby - "how often does this happen". Answer "for about a month in February and March". I bloody knew it.
Grrr! I'm not happy
Battambang is a sort of sleepy riverside town (for Cambodia's 2nd largest), and as there is very little to do, that's exactly what i do. I decline the option to visit the massacre caves, where you can apparently still hear the screams. I opt for plenty of after sun, a fruit smoothie, wandering around aimlessly, and then enjoying tea and cakes. Apparently if you go to that cafe, you can still hear my sigh of contentment...
