I had planned to go to Virachay National Park in the Ratanakiri province. I get to Stung Treng in a packed minivan, having endured bumpy roads and border officials who need overtime payments. Although three in the bus are Irish it isn't a good crack and I'm glad to arrive. To arrive and find that they are still building the park, that i can't go trekking in it, that possibly lots of indigenous people are being moved out of the area in the process of building it, that it's $35 just to do a day trek to a lake. I'm not sure what is the truth here, i have little information. I think it's possible about the park, To go to Ban Lung and the lakes and stuff would mean 2 nights in Stung Treng...i don't like the feel of the place.
So i go to Kratie (Krach-ee to see the dolphins :) It is another 2 and a bit hours in a full people carrier, 3 Irish and a bloke taking a lift on the top of the car. Somehow i'm envious of him. Kratie is a bit crappy, it's quite geared up for the backpackers with guesthouse and plenty of tours and of course fruit shakes and pancakes. I do go to see the dolphins - i'm even lucky enough to see them close, the highlight however is chilling with an Angkor beer and watching life in the market. it still amazes me how many people can fit on one motorbike - 5 is the most i've seen. The funniest was 4 and several baskets, the baskets took so muck room up that the girl on the back did the splits with her feet on top of the baskets because she had no room for her legs. I've even seen someone taking a piggy back as there was no more room on the seat.
I'm not unhappy to be leaving Kratie, I take the 7.30, 6.5 hour bus to Phnom Penh.
