For those fond of termite mounds, (as Steve has become on this trip), then Litchfield offers a wealth of termite-mound action. From the magnetic termite mounds – so named because the 2 meter high, but narrow structures face in a north-south orientation to act as a built-in temperature control mechanism as they allow the least possible amount of surface area to be exposed to the sun; the enormous cathedral termite mounds that also provide shelter for lizards and other small creatures, floodplain termites, tree piping termites, and the thin needle like aerial mounds.
We have been camped at the Wangi Falls campground and have used this as a base to explore the rest of Litchfield Park. The Wangi Falls flow into a large plunge pool (and although usually open for swimming in the dry season, the strong currents whilst we were there have meant that it stayed closed). A walking trail led us through monsoonal forest up to the top of the falls, past a magnificent giant Bower birds beautiful domed bower with a meter wide circle paved with silver, green and white treasure (actually this bower bird often came and visited our camp site – I think it was trying to work out how to make off with the camper trailer’s stainless steel bench to add it to the treasures already adorning its abode!).
We visited the towering Tolmer falls which cascaded over two escarpments into a plunge pool below. The Tolmer Falls were home to colonies of rare ghost bats, and Orange horse shoe bats.
A welcome cool relief was found swimming in the series of burbling and tumbling rock pools at Buley Rockhole, and we also spent a wonderful restful day after carrying in a picnic and bathers into the isolated Tjaynera Falls where we had the deep cold plunge pool to ourselves for the day.
The 4 WD track to the Historic Blyth Homestead ruins took us through our deepest creek crossing yet with the water up to the top of the bonnet, and creating an impressive bow wave as we ploughed through. The homestead ruins were really interesting and the grand daughter of the family who had built this home had compiled a really informative “family album” which really illuminated the hardships of pioneering life in this area (one of the children – 9 year old Max had captured and tamed a “pet” crocodile which apparently followed him everywhere!). The eldest of the 13 children were moved into this homestead where they lived independently (with their father dropping off supplies when he was able – the family home was 25 kilometers away), and the children had to grow food, raise cattle and run a tin mine on the property! (Ethan has it WAY too easy!) lol!
We visited the “lost city”, an unusual formation of freestanding sandstone towers and pillars that have been weathered in such a way that with a little imagination it really looks like it could be the ancient ruins of an Incan or Mayan civilization.
Certainly this is a stunning part of the world, and one we would happily return to.
