Lighting out for the terrritory

his time we take a leetle rest from the trains. Thought it would be fun to travel on a freighter so picking up ship in Genova. But I did not know it would be a brand new ship of surpassing beauty with charming officers and crew. There you go. Hope there a

Tues 4th Nov - KTM

NEPAL | Tuesday, 4 Nov 2008 | Views [97]

Lunch at the Roadside Cafe, cool and elegant with rattan blinds and Lavazza coffee. Humus and crudites. Just got back from Baluwater travel agency. No way to Tibet from Nepal as getting a visa is like getting one from iran, only worse. China to Nepal ... Read more >

Tags: fergus, stupa


Sun 2nd - Mon 3rd November - Katmandu

NEPAL | Sunday, 2 Nov 2008 | Views [150]

8 hours to Kathmandu on local bus, on the back seat with little cushioning and crammed and bumpy. Nice Aussie gave me his front seat next to Ruth halfway. Hot, hot, hot. No more buses for me - I am Train Woman. Check into the Hilton Hotel - no, really.... Read more >

Tags: hot


Saturday 1st November - Varanasi to Nepal

INDIA | Saturday, 1 Nov 2008 | Views [188]

Bus ride from hell. Decent-ish coach but 12 hours is 12 hours.Got to the border at Sunauli, got over the border and into Nepal Guest House. Dirty cell-like rooms, dirty sheets with ?bloodstains. Bathroom indescribable. Bed alive with bugs. Too tired to ... Read more >

Tags: bugs and buses - do not like


Fri 31st Oct - leaving India

INDIA | Thursday, 30 Oct 2008 | Views [161]

Funny thing is, when I got to Pakistan it was in my mind to skip India altogether and instead to go to Peshawar and then get a ride on the Karakoram Highway into China. Having said Derbyshire to Delhi, I kinda didn't pursue other options. Trust your ... Read more >

Tags: too much religion


Thursday 30th Oct - Varanasi

INDIA | Thursday, 30 Oct 2008 | Views [162]

5.30 am. Early morning boat ride down the Ganges with M and J. Sounds desperately romantic, doesn't it?  Actually, the Ganges has to be the most godawful boring stretch of water in the world. Slow, greyish, nothing. It is overcast and humid and the boatman ... Read more >

Tags: lepers, cremation.


Wed 29th Oct - Varanasi

INDIA | Thursday, 30 Oct 2008 | Views [66]

Haifa Hotel - many Israelis in India. After long rest I am eating humus and pitta bread and fruit salad and feeling human again. Fans are whirling and I have a double bed and am promised a/c this evening. What's not to like? Later had a walk on the ... Read more >


Tuesday - Delhi

INDIA | Wednesday, 29 Oct 2008 | Views [66]

Worried about money. Speak to bank that won't let me take out money - they had no idea I was away - all is well now. Balance on both is good. Feel better but stomach hurts. Sit in a cafe in Paraganj and take pics of passersby but little energy as tum ... Read more >

Tags: cockraoches


Monday - Delhi

INDIA | Monday, 27 Oct 2008 | Views [67]

My God, the pollution here is appalling. Never seen it at ground level before. Bump into Martyn from the Trans Asia express - we will meet up this evening. Go to Connaught Place and send postcards. Take rickshaw to the Red Fort - which is shut then ... Read more >

Tags: carpet shop - oh dear


Sunday 26th Oct - Delhi (my goal)

INDIA | Monday, 27 Oct 2008 | Views [65]

Hit delhi at 7.30 am. Book ticket for varanasi in two days time. 1100 Indian rupees for 2nd class a/c. Seems expensive. Vivek hotel in Parahganj. Wander round PG and eat breakfast at 5pm. Feel awful but cheered by cows walking down the street. I am seeing ... Read more >

Tags: cows in the street!


Sat 26th Oct - Lahore

INDIA | Sunday, 26 Oct 2008 | Views [100]

Taki to the border with my first Pathan. Drives like usual - with extra horn. Get to Wagah, the border with India. Buy China LP from Mr Latif's bookstall and change my money into Indian rupees, keeping back a bit for the porter who had five children ... Read more >

Tags: cigarette ban in india


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