Most
tourism involves some test of patience when confronted by conditions
or customs completely at odds with what is considered normal back
home. One's understanding and appreciation of the diversity of
humanity is broadened by approaching such experiences with an open
mind and a broad smile. It's why most of us travel. Seeing how other
people of different fortunes, history and lifestyles cope in the
global community gives us a better perspective on our own position.
And often gives us the opportunity to buy a lot of cheap crap.
I
admit I am often tempted by some worthless yet appealing consumable
being thrust in my face. It is never something I needed or I would
have been actively looking for it. And showing any interest shouldn't
require the vendor to run through speeding traffic to hawk their
hardware to me. Enough tourists are tempted by tricks and trinkets
that are either illegal back home, or being sold at a tenth of the
price. A tenth of the Western price still being five times the local
price.
My
party in Hanoi proved that the locals are just as keen to blow some
hard earned on cheap crap that is unlikely to last a week. Lucky for
them though, they know to bargain hard and don't relent until the
vendor has sworn black and blue that they're the ones being robbed
and their six children won't have anything to eat now. It's part of
their culture, not ours, yet our propensity to pay proportionately
more for the same garbage has made targeting travellers part of their
culture as well.
Hearing
“Taxi, sir?” on every street corner, or offers of assistance if I
linger even momentarily at a stall is fine and part of the appeal
knowing I never have to wait long to get what I want. Having people
pull me towards their store intoning “Have a look sir. Something?”
incenses me for two reasons. Firstly, their “something” appeal
sounds like they can offer anything my heart desires; as long as it's
a t-shirt or a carving. Secondly, the last time I was grabbed so
forcefully was after a successful raid on the cookie jar, and the
childhood associations of sulking do not incline me to spending.
I
understand the vast social and financial gulf that separates me from
these people and how the most insignificant expenditure from me can
change the fortunes of their day. But there is 87 million of them
here in Vietnam alone, not all of whom need to sell me stuff but most
will try given the chance. During one meal, we counted 14 sales
pitches by people who thought that having our wallets out for food
might incline us towards buying something far less necessary. Simply
ignoring them nearly gave way to some hot noodle head gear for one
newspaper vendor who tried three times in 20 minutes. Have some fried
rice if that would make a difference, but show me the paper again and
I'll make you eat that instead.
I
thought better of writing about such things as I realise my tone is
negative and my position somewhat pompous by comparison. But this is
an issue everyone who comes to Vietnam will have to face at some
point. The only way to avoid it is to never leave the hotel room or
mortgage the house and succumb to every service and stock being
offered. We all deal with it differently, and have different opinions
on how much we are to blame for it. Ultimately, it is not just cause
to dislike the place but some gloss has certainly been lost.
In
contrast, everything else still seems airbrushed as our beetroot eyes
see out through vasoline coated lens. The associated pain has
subsided but we still look like over-indulger's and continue to bathe
the blood red marbles in anti-biotic fluid every 2 hours. Doing so in
public has provided untold amusement for locals like scratching my
ass could result in a two hour analysis of Western behaviour. The
beauty of travel is you're often more of a spectacle to them than
they are to us. It's just they don't have their camera at the ready
as often as we do.
We
were an unusual spectacle when the bus dropped us off in Hue. A night
in the 5 person party bed at the back of the sleeper bus would have
been more fun if it had have been shared with the four girls who were
originally supposed to take it. They were none too impressed with
being squeezed in with three Vietnamese guys so we were asked to take
their place. We had just been felt up at the market place so some
more curiosity satisfying gropes in bed wasn't going to make much
difference.
Old
mate to my right wanted to sleep like a starfish so I was wishing for
some groping before long as the elbow alternative was not inclining
me to comfort. Adding sleep deprivation to stink eye made the waiting
hotel touts somewhat sceptical about giving us a room. Luckily the
bus stop was their front door and looking like zombies doesn't change
the value of our money. After climbing 4 floors just to check the
room out, neither of us could be bothered going anywhere else at
630am to see possibly worse or more expensive rooms.
Unfortunately
Hue didn't have much of worth to tempt us out of the hotel room. It
was just another big town except for the citadel, the seat of power
for the Southern lords before Uncle Ho forcefully convinced them to
share the wealth. The amount of historical sites it contained looked
worthy of at least a day of wandering. Not so, and not merely because
our map was woefully out of scale. Most of the complex looked like it
was built relatively recently, and abandoned soon after. It's history
wasn't long enough to make them ruins, or interesting in themselves
to reminisce about a by-gone era. And all the half completed
restoration had too much scaffolding around for the site to avoid
comparisons to India's Commonwealth games.
Hue's
worth was it proximity to the DMZ, or the de-militarised zone of the
American War. After the complete absence of useful information we
found in previous war sites, I felt less inclined to look at big bomb
holes in the ground, small VC tunnel holes that most Westerners would
struggle getting a leg through, and another big hole in my wallet. I
have a mild interest in war history, particularly one that ended 28
days before I was born, but the Vietnamese have negligible interest
in it. Virtually everyone who lived through it, lost a loved one and
would therefore prefer to avoid the painful association. Anyone who
didn't live through it, is far more interested in a prosperous
future, and ways in which we, as tourists, can help make it as
prosperous as possible for them.
Again,
I apologise for the negative tone of this entry. I am currently
writing to escape the tailor touts of Hoi An, some of who managed to
make me a suit in the time I paused outside their shop to have a swig
of water. The next entry will detail the beautiful old city of Hoi An
in a much better light than what I see it now after a day of
persistent pestering.