Today was definitivley my last day in Kalimpong. I got up a bit earlier than normal to do chi gung, take a shower and pack my ruck sack (a job I detest) so that I would also have time to pop down to the post office (not that you can 'pop down' in India in my experience so far) and despatch some bought goodies back to the UK.
All was going pretty well. Kamal lent me a box to pack the goods in and even helped to securely pack them. He then advised me to get some tape from a shop down the road and to take it to the tailor (I had to double/triple take this bit) who would sew it all up. All of this I duly did. A shopkeeper very kindly gave me some tape as he did not have any to sell, and the tailors, operating out of an open planned shack, very kindly got some cloth and sewed this around the cardboard box whilst I sat on a stool and once again practiced patience whilst admiring their skill. So many times on this trip I have put myself in the hands of strangers and received at least service and often kindness.
So Box sewed up and addresses written on cloth, I had time to go down to the post office to arrange the postage before catching my middayish shared taxi to Gangtok. Unfortunately (maybe), having lugged the box to the post office off Main Street, I found out that it was Sunday and the post office was closed. Not to worry, I thought, I'll post it from Gangtok.
Back to Deki Lodge, I rested a little while and then strapped on the backpack, picked up the post to be, and made my way back down into town to the Taxi stand all in good time. Once at the taxi stand I was told, rather gleefully methought, that I would not be able to go to Gangtok today as all the spaces had been taken.
Ticket for tomorrow duly purchased (8.30 sharp or not), I made my way back to Deki Lodge, past the shop keeper and boys who I had earlier said my farewells to and back to my room. Also, back past the Tibetan grandmother owner who had draped me with a white scarf and given me a gift of a Tibetan carrier bag (v nice) when I had left earlier.
Not to worry. Yesterday had tired me out so I was happy to have another day practicing being bored, doing nothing and enjoying the sun massaging my face and the sounds and smells of Kalimpong caressing or assaulting my senses (some delicious spices today).
I also considered having my hair cut which, with my reading of the Bodhicaryavatara, led to reflections on my vanity in trying to look younger than my 50 years (apparently I hardly look 40 - thanks Aasha!). For example, I've been regularly checking myself in the mirror to see if my stay in India is having a 'good' impact on my waistline. I decided that I was being foolish and that it was high time I accepted my age and what that meant in terms of changes in my physical appearance.
Half an hour later I was at the barbers. He again opperates out of a cave like opening off Tirpai Road, which leads up to Deki Lodge, and had assertively beckoned me into his shop once I had made my half hearted enquiries. I did not imagine that he would have electricity (and so electric clippers), so just indicated that I wanted my hair short. As he started snipping away with his scissors I caught sight of a pair of electric clippers hanging on the wall but by this point thought that I would be insulting his professionalism if I now requested he use these. I need not have worried as I was in the hands of a master. My hair was duly scissored short, the lines expertly styled with a razor (new blade inserted - I was not sure what I'd get), my face razored clean (twice like a double bladed wilkinson sword but done manually!), any nicks healed withe a large piece of quartz dipped in water, and my face, neck, shoulders, arms and hands slapped, pummelled, pulled, clicked and manipulated. All for 150 rupees wybi!! I love this man..
Haircutted, stomach drawn in and looking no more than 35, I made my way back to my balcony, via the mirror, and then for a stroll to enjoy the last of the day's sunshine before a decent dinner at Gompus of egg fried rice and vegetable in oyster sauce. This followed by my umpteenth walk back 10th mile to the hotel in the dusky twilight.
I am leaving Kalimpong tomorrow you know! xx
